Daniel “Old Ironbark” Bunce, Botanist.

Daniel Bunce was born in 18th March 1813 in Rickmansworth, Hertfordshire, England and baptised on the 19th of April. He was the son of William Bunce and Sarah Grover. Passed away at Geelong, in the Colony of Victoria, 2nd July (Tuesday) 1872 aged 59.

Daniel Bunce was Naturalist on Ludwig Leichhardt's second expedition in 1846-1847. He was also Curator of the Geelong Botanic Gardens, Victoria 1858-1872.

1. Married Pelonamena Frances Darling (Batman) Bunce — married 1851 in Colony of Victoria, Died 17 Aug 1859 at age 25 in Geelong, Colony of Victoria.

2. Married Julia (O'Connor) Bunce — 1860 in Colony of Victoria, Julia passed away in 1914 in Victoria.

Trained as a gardener and botanist; emigrated to Hobart Town 1835; opened Denmark Hill nursery, Launceston 1835-39; went to Port Phillip 1839; joined a party of Aboriginals on a journey to Western Port and made an intensive study of their spoken language; established a nursery at St Kilda; joined Leichhardt on his second attempt to cross Australia from east to west 1846; manager of a Bendigo mining company ca 1849-58; wrote on the flora of Bendigo for the Melbourne "Argus"; published "Language of the Aborigines" 1851; director, Geelong Botanical Gardens 1858-72. Wrote a number of books and articles on botany, gardening and travel. He is commemorated by Panicum buncei, F. V. M.

THE LATE DANIEL BUNCE, C.M.H.S.

We regret to have to record the by no means unex-pected demise of Mr Daniel Bunce, C.M.H.S., curator of the Geelong Botanical Gardens for a period of about thirteen years. When Mr Bunce assumed the charge of the site of those now beautiful gardens, it was a bleak undulating tract of land, very partially clothed with scrubby native timber. Mr Bunce’s labors have achieved for the inhabitants of Geelong an extensive and beautiful place of recreation. Mr Bunce was a good botanist, a corresponding member of the Horticultural Society of Chiswick (we believe), made extensive botanical tours through Tasmania, Victoria, South Australia, New South Wales, and Queensland, and was botanist with Leichhardt on two expeditions, and intended to have acted in the like capacity on that intrepid explorer’s last, but some dis-agreement as to conditions arose at the last moment. On this he returned overland to Melbourne with an extensive hortus siccus, and a vast collection of seeds. Previously to accepting the charge of the Geelong Botani-cal Gardens he was occupied as local correspondent to the Argus at Clunes, and in 1857 at Forest Creek for the Argus or the Herald. Mr Bunce spent about fifteen years among the aboriginal natives of various parts of Australasia, in order to acquire a knowledge of their habits, traditions, and language, and he published a valuable vocabulary, the first edition of which was issued in 1851 and the second in 1859. Jemmy, a native of the Doutta Galla tribe, accompanied Mr Bunce during his travels for many years, and no doubt facilitated Mr Bunce in his labors, which included the collection of phrases and dialogue, with parallel translations. Mr Bunce was also the author of “Hortus Tasmaniensis,” "The Australian Manual of Horticulture,” "Guide to the Linnean System of Botany,” and “Australasiatic Reminiscences.” Mr Bunce was thrice married, and by diphtheria, lost, we believe, no less than four of his children by his third wife. He was universally respected in Geelong, where he was latterly best known, but many of the old resi-dents of Melbourne, among whom may especially be mentioned Mr W. Hull, J.P., were on the closest terms of friendship with him. Naturally of a strong constitution, there is no doubt he received during his exposures in Queensland the seeds of the disease (heart disease with dropsy), which ultimately carried him off on Tuesday, 2nd July, at a comparatively early age. We gather from a passage in Mr Bunce’s journal, of travel in Northern Australia with Dr Leichhardt, under date 18th March, 1847, that “on rising from my blanket this morning, I was congratulated on commencing my thirty-fourth year." Suffering at the time from the debilitating effects of swamp fever and ague, we can hardly wonder at the writer not taking a very lively view of the circumstance, and de-signating his previous career as “a crooked and some-what eventful existence.” The above extract gives us a sufficiently accurate idea of his age, but beyond the fact that he was an Englishman, we have no idea of his native place or family connections. He was a man of much natural and acquired ability, and had excellent taste and good powers of observation. He had evidently enjoyed a good education, but we are not in a position to state to what profession he de-voted himself, or in what capacity he had acquired his considerable stock of knowledge in botany and horticulture. Both of these, we are ready to allow, he may have improved upon after reaching the anti-podes, but it would seem that a love of adventure and a disposition to acquire botanical information and specimens, had been main inducements for him to leave his native land for these shores. He left Graves-end on 17th October, 1832, in the Ellen, of London, George Dixon, master, and reached Tasmania on 2nd March, 1833, “not touching at any other port on the way.” Among the passengers were Mr Eyre, since celebrated for his explorations and privations in South-Western Australia, and Mr Thomas Wilkin-son, “ since M.L.C. for the Portland Bay district, and also, the projector, editor, printer, and pressman of the Portland Bay Guardian. On landing at Hobart Town, Mr Bunce “produced his credentials, or letters of introduction,” among others to Captain John Montague, Colonial Secretary; and Governor Arthur; the immediate result of which is not apparent. One was addressed to Mr Wm. Cleavy Browne, who had “just commenced a large and extensive timber and saw mill in Sassafras Valley, at the foot of Mount Wellington.” This gentleman provided Mr Bunce with facilities in the shape of guides, and he was en-abled to examine “ the botanically interesting features of Mount Wellington.” Mr Bunce, on his return to Hobart Town, set out on his journey of botanical ex-ploration throughout the island, moving northward with sundry lateral excursions till he reached Bass’ Straits. On this pedestrian journey he made a huge collection of hitherto undescribed plants, and other important information relative to the topography and aboriginal inhabitants of the island. At Buffalo Plains, near Ben Lomond, he mentions having seen or visited the farm of Mr John Batman, afterwards the first settler on the site of Melbourne. On his visit to the Cataract, near Launceston, Mr Bunce was accompanied by Mr J. E. Underwood, of Launceston, “ an old and respected colonist, and a close disciple of the botanical profes-sion.” Mr Bunce on his return to the southern part of the island made further explorations to the right and left of the direct road, carrying off in his port-folio numerous and valuable botanical acquisitions. In 1835 there was a nursery, fruit, and seed garden com-menced by Mr Lightfoot, on the New Town road, near Hobart Town, to which he was the first to in-troduce a choice stock of pear trees. The plants, of which there was a very extensive collection, both exotic and indigenous, were arranged by Mr Bunce in two departments, the one according to the classification of Linnæus, and the other agreeable to the natural sys-tem of Jussieu. This establishment Mr Bunce subse-quently purchased and opened as the Denmark Hill Nursery, and “the same year introduced the first im-portation of English fruit trees and other choice British shrubs and plants, from the well-known estab-lishment of Messrs Whitley and Osborne, Fulham, London.” Mr Bunce takes credit to have been the first to commence the arrangement of Australian indi-genous as well as exotic plants, according to both scientific systems, “to which were attached large cross wooden labels indicating their class, order, and natural relationships.” After three years close observation of the climate and its effect upon garden produce, Mr Bunce, through his friend Dr James Ross, editor and proprietor of the Hobart Town Courier, commenced the publication, in monthly parts, of “ Bunce’s Manual of Australian Gardening.” This work met with popular approbation, and the latter numbers were published by Dr Ross' successor in the same office, Mr W. G. Elliston. In 1836 Colonel Arthur, the governor, gave place to Sir John Franklin. We believe that Mr Bunce’s first wife was the highly respected lady's maid of Lady Franklin. On 10th January, 1837, Tasmania “was honored by the arrival of some distinguished visitors from Port Phillip, which had just been discovered by Mr John Batman, in the persons of two of its princes or chiefs—Derri-mut, king of the Werriby district, and Betbenjee, of the adjoining district, two brothers, with whom was the gigantic Buckley, whom Batman had dis-covered among the natives on his first visiting Port Phillip, where he had resided for 33 years.” Among others Mr Bunce, with Dr Ross, visited Buckley. Mr Bunce states of the two chiefs that “on their arrival they both got extremely intoxicated, and they both felt the sickening effects the following morning. Poor Derrimut was induced to taste ‘a hair of the dog that bit him,’ and recommenced his debauch, and still continues a drunkard to this day (1857). But his brother Betbenjee was so heartily disgusted, that he never could be induced to taste spirits since. Bet-benjee is now dead; Buckley is dead; and Derrimut we saw on Sunday evening, 27th April, 1856, at Moordy-yallack, and who, we may as well state, was the first to greet us on our first arrival in Port Phillip, in 1839.” Mr Bunce bade farewell to Tasmania in the early part of the month of October, 1839, and reached Port Phillip after a protracted and rough passage of nearly three weeks, in the Lord Hobart, Thomas Nichol, master. Fellmongers' yards reminded them that the elements of civilisation had preceded their arrival. Reaching infant Melbourne, they landed from the ship's boat in which they had come up the river, on the low muddy bank on the north side of the river, the site known as the wharf. Proceeding eastward, they passed “a neat and tasteful building,” situated on a small hillock, called Batman's Hill. Mr Marcus Clarke, in “Old Tales of a New Country,” says that on Buckley's return from Gelli-brand’s exploring expedition he built the chimney of Mr Batman's house, “the first habitation regularly

formed at Port Phillip.” Mr Bunce describes how he became acquainted with one of a tribe of aborigines, and made an excursion to Dandenong, and thence to Western Port. Among the natives were Derrimut, Yammabook, or Hawk’s Eye, and Benbow. The last mentioned is the man who gave information of an evil design his companions had conceived, and thus pre-vented what might have been a fatal encounter be-tween them and the first settlers. Benbow invariably rejected all solicitations to partake of spirituous liquors, and is the only teetotaller Mr. Bunce ever met with among the aborigines. In a corner of Mr Batman's garden, Benbow and his wife Kitty dwelt in a small hut of his own constructing. Within, everything was cleanly and in good order. Benbow was often consulted by the settlers concerning various matters, and he was always willing to impart what information he possessed. He was not only an intel-ligent native, but a really worthy fellow; an evidence that the aborigines of Australia are not, as has been so frequently stated by various writers, incapable of being civilised. Mr Bunce’s second wife was one of the daughters of John Batman, another of whom mar-ried, if we mistake not, Mr Weire, town-clerk of Gee-long. His third wife was Miss Julia O’Connor, a younger sister of Mrs Charles Creswick, whose hus-band was settled upon and gave the name to Cres-wick's Creek, and the town of Creswick. Mr Bunce acted in the capacity of naturalist and botanist to Leichhardt’s second expedition, and col-lected upwards of one thousand plants, with, where practicable, these specimen papers in triplicate, and among them were some forming new genera and species and varieties in the Botanic Gardens, Mel-bourne, which were determined by the Government botanist, Dr Müller. He was unknown to Leichhardt till his arrival in Sydney. He says, "My arrangements were effected through written correspondence. One of the conditions was an equal share of my specimens in natural history which might be collected, and this threatened to be the cause of my not joining in the interesting movement of the forthcoming expedition. In a few days I received a reply favorable to my expectations, with instructions to be in time to start on 1st October, 1846.” He left Melbourne in the Himalaya, Captain Burn, on the day of September on which “Dr Palmer read the Riot Act." On arrival at Sydney he found Dr Leichhardt packing up, assisted by his friend, Lieut. Lynd, barrack-master (late of the 63rd Regiment), whom Mr Bunce, had met botanically in Tasmania. The exploring party consisted of nine persons, and included John Mann, draughtsman. They had 270 goats, 108 sheep, 15 horses, and 13 mules. On 7th December, 1846, they left Jimba and followed the Condamine River. There Mr Bunce commenced a practice which he followed up at every convenient opportunity where soil and situation suited, of sowing seeds of the most useful culinary vegetables. On 15th December they heard of Sir Thomas Mit-chell's return. On 29th December Mr Bunce, within a circuit of three miles of the camp, collected upwards of thirty distinct kinds of grasses, highly nutritious, and greedily eaten by the cattle. On the 4th January, 1847, Dr Leichhardt de-termined not to wait for despatches (sic) from Sir Thomas Mitchell, and on 13th January his messengers returned without any information. ln the beginning of Feb-ruary, while at the Expedition Range, the whole party was more or less attacked by fever. On 13th Feb-ruary they were, at the Comet river, so named by Dr Leichhardt, on his first expedition, from the fact of the comet of that year having made its first ap-pearance. On 16th February, Mr Bunce, in conse-quence of his weakened condition, was nearly drowned in a sheet of muddy water, and when he got to thet camp “ Dr Leichhardt was at last con-vinced that I was really and truly very ill, and expressed some little sympathy for me and poor Wommai.” Though he had been without food for days, he was only able to swallow a few drops of gela-tine soup. At night heavy rain fell, and the crisis of the fever occurring, he was unconscious, and did not know until the morning that he was half covered with water. He was, however, kindly attended to by Dr Leichhardt and Mr Perry, the doctor afterwards remarking that “I had forcibly verified the old proverb of ' the ruling passion strong in death,’ as the only remark made by me during the night was, ‘ Mr Perry, take care of my specimens.’ ” On 23rd February, he lost in a flood a portfolio of insects and a spade. The party remained on the Mackenzie river a large part of March in consequence of floods and the general illness of the party, when the duties of watch-ing cattle at night and attending to the sick, generally devolved upon Mr Bunce. He states that owing to Dr Leichhardt having escaped sickness in the Port Essington expedition, he came very ill provided with medicines on this, and reproached himself with his neglect, especially as they were surrounded by blacks, and were all weak by disease and watching. On 12th March the doctor himself was very ill. On the 14th Mr Bunce, thinking a tonic would be valuable to the in-valids, sowed mustard and cress seeds, which next day made their appearance above-ground. On the 23rd, Mr Bunce went down the river with a tin plate and knife to gather a dish of mustard and cress which he had promised the now recovering invalids as being ready for use on that day. He says:—“ Judge of my surprise and disgust at finding the whole had been cut, and that, too, by someone wearing Euro-pean boots. I appealed to Dr Leichhardt for a solution, and he admitted he had cut and eaten it. The admission was a sore disappointment to the invalids, who were unable to eat anything substantial, and had been anxiously waiting for me to cut the cress and salad. Dr Leichhardt observed there would be more fit for cutting in two or three days, and if the invalids liked to cut it themselves they might have it, but not other-wise. This was tantamount to saying that they should not have it, as they were unable to move.” Mr Bunce relates another unpleasant circum-stance. On the 24th, at night, a sheep’s head was boiled, but owing to some mis-management, the pot was capsized and all the gravy lost. Dr Leichhardt very coolly picked up the head, and in despite of the remonstrances of the invalids swallowed all of it but the bones. Mr Bunce says that before swimming the river on the 27th he went and cut the cress, and on this occasion the invalids got it. At the angle formed by the Mackenzie and Comet rivers, Dr Leichhardt marked on a big tree the word “dig,” and buried beneath, a powder canister con-taining a letter stating their miserable condition, to-gether with one by Mr Bunce to the Argus, and others by other members of the expedition. The party now began to lose all heart, and several of the invalids wished to return under the guidance of an aborigine named Brown. Ill as he was, Mr Bunce, who had at last been invited to seek shelter in the doctor’s tent, objected to return after going so far. On 6th April they started with the invalids for higher ground; next morning, the doctor returned with his black companion Wommai, with only four head of cattle, all the rest having been hopelessly lost. The doctor came to Mr Bunce as he lay in his blanket, and asked his opinion respecting the party and its prospects. After much painful conversation, the doctor said that he also thought it best, under all the circumstances, to go back. On 12th June they were seven or eight hundred miles off the nearest settlement, and their stock of dried beef running short. Dr Leichhardt and Wommai travelled back to the Mackenzie, a distance of 90 miles, and on their return on 17th June, reported that they had recovered some mules and horses, and found growing upon the banks of the river some fine radishes, turnips, and other culinary vegetables of Mr Bunce’s sowing. This gratifying intelli-gence gave rise to the comforting impression that they would find similar good fortune at all their camps, Mr Bunce never having failed to sow seeds, although at the time he little thought of either eating the produce or seeing the place again. On 22nd June the whole party on its homeward route reached the Mackenzie, and next morning made a start for the bounds of civilisation. On 3rd July they camped at the foot of the Expedition Range, and Mr Bunce found an in-teresting plant, since dedicated to Dr A. F. A. Greeves —Greevesia cleisocalyx. Mr Bunce says :—“Dr Leichhardt was good enough to name a mountain at the head of this romantic creek after my unworthy self.” At Charlie’s Creek they saw fresh tracks of cattle. When they reached the Condamine River they camped on its banks, and were on the eve of going to sleep, when they heard the barking of dogs on the opposite bank. This intimated the proximity of a station, and called up visions of damper, mutton, and other sweetmeats, during the slum-bers of many of the party. Next morning Dr Leichhardt crossed the river, and had not been long absent when he returned with Mr Chauvell and Mr Ewer. These two gentlemen had followed upon the party’s outward tracks, and settled upon this part of the Condamine. The party remained two days at the station, where they were supplied with everything necessary, and then started for Jimba and Darling Downs. Previous to leaving, says Mr Bunce, “l ex-changed pipes with Mr Chauvell, receiving a new one for my old black veteran of the wilderness, and to which Mr Chauvell appeared to attach considerable value.” Thence the party proceeded to Sydney. Dr Leichhardt now being in possession of Sir Thomas Mitchell's experiences, undertook a journey to the westward of Darling Downs, in order to examine the country between Mitchell’s track and his own. He started on 9th August, 1847, with Mr F. F. Isaacs, Mr Bunce, Mr Perry, and Wommai (or Jemmy) the blackfellow. Dr Leichhardt, in a letter after his return from Darling Downs, mentions that he called a large creek with reedy waterholes and sandy bed, by the name of Bunce’s Creek. He afterwards says, “I shall take this opportunity of giving my best thanks to Mr Isaacs, who had such a large share in the exploration of Dar-ling Downs and its confines; to Mr Daniel Bunce and to Mr Perry for their kind assistance on the expedition. I am personally obliged to Mr Bunce for a fine collection of seeds and plants which he made, not only on this occasion, but on my expedition to Peak Range.” Dur-ing the completion of the arrangements for Dr Leich-hardt’s new and last expedition, from which he has

never returned, Mr Bunce employed himself in bota-nical excursions in the neighborhood of the Darling Downs, and especially the dense brushes of Moreton Bay and the northerly ranges of Wide Bay. When the doctor rejoined Mr Bunce at Darling Downs, the former objected to comply with the conditions on which Mr Bunce and the rest of the party undertook again to accompany him. Mr Bunce says:— "They were such as I thought of import-ance to the success of the expedition, and to which he readily complied at the time of his going to Sydney. From his determining not to accede to my proposals, I did not feel justified in again accompanying him, and he finally started with but a small party in the month of March, 1848. The following is the last letter he wrote before he plunged into the unknown wilderness, whence no tidings have since been received of him or his party.” In this letter he states he went from Birrell’s on the Conda-mine to Mr M‘Pherson’s, Fitzroy Downs. He speaks of hot days (3rd April, 1848,) and beautiful clear cool nights, and says, “ I am full of hopes that our Almighty protector will allow me to bring my darling scheme to a successful termination." Mr Bunce now resolved upon returning to Port Phillip, but before taking his departure, he made an excursion in the direction of Wide Bay, Port Curtis. Mr Isaacs accompanied him, and in continuing their journey they passed Darling Downs, Level Plains, Castlereagh River, Millee Plains, Wellington, Yass, and Bathurst, thence to Molong copper mine, Snowy Mountains, and Gipps Land. Having reached the middle region of the Gipps Land range, Mr Bunce was agreeably surprised to meet a num-ber of Melbourne aborigines who expressed much plea-sure at his return. He reached St. Kilda after an absence of nearly three years. After recruiting, he resumed his travels, this time down the Murray River, which he followed till it joined the sea, through Lake Alexandrina and Encounter Bay—“having by this means followed the Great Western system of waters from their upper sources in the tropics.” Shortly after his return, gold was discovered at Clunes, and he was dispatched thither as the special correspondent of the Argus, and “had then an opportunity of re-cording the working of the first cradle by Messrs Esmond and Hiscock.” In conclusion, Mr Bunce refers to the days of Victoria at the time he first wrote and when he writes in 1857 :—“I would ask is not something due to the original founder of a coun-try which has afforded an asylum to hundreds of thousands, and a comparatively princely fortune to many ? And we earnestly conclude with the hope— most emphatically expressed by a previous writer in this colony, that ‘Justice may be done to Batman' or his Descendants.”

Referring to. the. death on Tuesday of Mr Daniel Bunce, curator of the Geelong Botanical Gardens, the Advertiser furnishes the following particulars, which valuably supplement our notice in Wednesday’s Star.-—“ Mr Bunce’s fatal illness commenced about eleven weeks ago. The intelligence that he was seriously indisposed created at the time a painful sensation, not ouly here, where he was almost as well known as the gardens- he had laid out, but likewise in Melbourne and Ballarat, where he had numerous friends and associates of former tiine3 that took a deep interest in his welfare. Day by day the utmost solicitude respecting the issue of his malady was evinced, and probably there are ,few individuals; iu the community whose fate would, under similar circumstances, have inspired the same wide-spread anxiety. His medical advisers from the first were unremitting in their endeavors to restore him again to the society of his friends, but ouly faint hopes of success were entertained. Dr Walstie visited him almust daily up to the time of his death. A few weeks ago lie rallied and appeared to gain strength, but the appearances proved deceptive. At that time he was himself under the impression that he was convalescent, and one day at his request the doctor assisted him to the open air. This was the ouly occasion on which Mr Buhce was able to venture out of his room. From.that time, however, all traces of returning vigor began'to disappear, he sank rapidly, and on Tuesday afternoon, surrounded by his family and friends, he passed away. Mr Bunce was born in 1813, iu Hertfordshire, near Rickmansworth, and educated at Dr Beasley’s, of Uxbridge. After studying botany under the celebrated Sir William Jackson Hooker, of Kew Gardens, near Loudon, he received the appointment, we believe, of botanist to the Government of Tasmania, and left England on 17th October, 1532, in the Ellen. Mr Bunce was married three times, his second wife being the youngest daughter of Batman, the pioneer of Victoria, and it was in a lawsuit respecting tbe claims of the descendants of that gentleman, that Mr Bunce was a great loser in a financial point of view. He became curator of our Botanical Gardens sixteen or seventeen years ago, when it was an unfilled waste just fenced ini What he has since done with the land can be seen by all, residents or visitors.”

Daniel Bunce Narrative from 1846 - 1847, Ist attempt at Trans Australia crossing East to West.

NARRATIVE OF DR. LEICHHARDT'S EXPEDITION: ITS OBJECT BEING TO EXPLORE THE INTERIOR OF AUSTRALIA, TO
DISCOVER THE EXTENT OF STURT'S DESERT, AND THE CHARACTER OF THE WESTERN AND NORTH-WESTERN
COAST, AND TO OBSERVE THE GRADUAL CHANGE IN VEGETATION AND ANIMAL LIFE, FROM ONE SIDE OF THE
CONTINENT TO THE OTHER.

Daniel Bunce Narrative from 1846 - 1847, Ist attempt at Trans Australia

crossing East to West.

Dr. Leichhardt did not expect to be able to accomplish this

overland journey to Swan River in less than two years and a half.

He purposed to travel over his old route as far as Peak Ranges, and

then to shape his course westward; but thought it not impossible,

as his course depended on water, that he should be obliged to

reach the Gulf of Carpentaria, and follow up some river to its

source.

It now becomes our duty to let our readers know with what

success these intentions were carried out.

There are, perhaps, few names more closely associated with the

rise and progress of the Australian colonies than that of the

lamented Br. Ludwig Leichhardt, whether we consider the success

attendant on his first expedition to Port Essington, and the

valuable addition made to the geographical and scientific

departments of the hitherto terra incognito, or tropical portions of

the colony; or the hardships attending the two subsequent

expeditions, in which he contemplated nothing less than the

exploration of the whole of the island lying between Sydney and

Swan River, with its animal and vegetable productions. The author

acted in the capacity of naturalist and botanist to the expedition,

and collected upwards of one thousand plants, with, where

practicable, their specimen papers in triplicate; and among which

were some, forming new genera, species, and varieties, in theBotanical Gardens, Melbourne, which have been determined by

the Government botanist, Dr. Ferdinand Mueller.

Until our arrival in Sydney, we were personally unknown to Dr.

Leichhardt, although, with others, we formed one of those who

admired the steadfast and courageous manner in which he had just

terminated an undertaking that rendered his name, from one end of

the continent to the other, as familiar as household words. My

arrangements with the doctor were effected through a written

correspondence; one of our conditions on joining the party was an

equal share of any specimens in natural history which might be

collected during the journey, and this threatened to be the cause of

my not joining in the interesting movement of the forthcoming

expedition. In a few days I received a reply favorable to my

expectations,, with instructions to be in Sydney in time to start on

the first of October. On the receipt of this letter, I made instant

preparations for my departure, and took my passage in the

"Himmalaya", under the command of Captain Burn. I bade

farewell to this good city at a time memorable in the annals of

Australia Felix, as on that day Dr. Palmer, the present respected

Speaker of our Legislative House of Assembly, but who at that

time occupied the civic chair of our then infant municipality, had

the pleasing duty of reading the Riot Act to the playfully but

mischievously-disposed citizens of Melbourne. I trust this

interesting and important epocha may not be overlooked by the

compilers of almanacs, in manufacturing their next chronological

summary of remarkable events. But to proceed.

We left Melbourne on a Tuesday, in September, in the year of

grace 1846, and, after a pleasing passage of six days, reached the

picturesque entrance to the celebrated harbor of Port Jackson early

on the Sunday morning following; and a gentle breeze wafted us

slowly into the harbor, near the Circular Wharf, where we

anchored in the evening. Our slow progress up the river gave us

ample time to admire what has been on so many occasions, and byable writers, graphically described. The apparently artificially-cut

semi-circular inlets on either side, and in the back-ground scenery

the most picturesque, relieved with innumerable villa residences,

built from the natural free-stone, the abundance of which,

combined with prison labor in former years, conduced materially

in rendering Sydney, in point of buildings and architecture, one of

the most important cities in the Austral Asiatic colonies.

On the following morning, we paid our respects to Dr. Leichhardt,

by whom we were kindly received. We found him busily engaged

in packing up, arranging, and putting by the various collections in

natural history, the result of his former travels, in which he was

being assisted by his faithfully attached friend (of the 63rd),

Lieutenant Lynd, barrackmaster, and with whom we had been

personally acquainted some years previously, during our botanical

travels in Tasmania. Dr. Leichhardt expressed his satisfaction at

our speedy arrival, as it enabled us to accompany his personal staff

overland to Darling Downs. Had our arrival been delayed, we

should have had the alternative of reaching Moreton Bay by sea,

in which case we should have been deprived of the pleasure of an

inspection of the Hunters River, the table land of New England,

and the fertile district of Darling Downs, one of the most

celebrated squatting localities in either northern or southern

Australia.

This lovely country was discovered by poor Cunningham, the

botanist, who has long since paid his debt at the altar of science,

during one of Sir Thomas Mitchell's expeditions, in which he took

the part of naturalist; his disappearance and death occurred most

mysteriously, during a botanical reconnaisance from the camp.

The only remains of this unfortunate gentleman was the remnant

of a coat which he was known to have worn when be absented

himself from his companions. This melancholy circumstance

occurred on the Bogan, a tributary of the Darling, which, next tothe Murray, forms one of the great arteries of the western system

of waters. How many botanists and naturalists have met with a

similar fate to poor Cunningham!—Gilbert, Kennedy, Leichhardt,

and lastly poor Strange, collector for Gould, the celebrated

ornithologist, of London. Mr. Strange was one of our oldest and

most constant contributors and correspondents: he had just

returned from a visit to Europe, by the "Vimiera". Two months

before seeing the melancholy account of his death by the blacks,.

in the Sydney Morning Herald, which occurred in the Wide Bay

district, he called for the purpose of seeing us in Melbourne, and

for the first time, after a series of years in which we were

correspondents, to effect a personal acquaintance. We did not

meet, and in two or three short months he was numbered with the

dead; and let us hope that, "after life's fitful fever, he sleeps

well,"—if a man can be said to have had time to arrange his mind

for that great event while suffering from the effect of several

barbed spears, which had entered his body in various places.

"Peace to his manes." And now to again proceed with the more

legitimate subject of Leichhardt's movements.

It was proposed to leave Sydney on the following evening; and

from tie multiplicity of bis arrangements, and the many calls on

his time, which under present circumstanced he could so ill afford

to spare, he was desirous of concealing his intentions from the

public. It is needless to say that in this attempt he was

disappointed; as one who occupied so much of the notice of the

people, a kind and attentive surveillance followed his every

movement; and, on reaching the steamer "Thistle" at 10 p.m. a

large concourse of the citizens was in attendance, offering their

congratulations and good wishes for the successful termination of

his intended and arduous undertaking. Among those who wished

for an introduction, were some friends of our own. Excepting,

however, to two or three who accompanied us on hoard, we did

not encroach upon the doctor's attention.Our passage up the Hunter as far as Newcastle being performed in

the night time, we had no opportunity of observing the character

of the adjoining country. We stepped upon deck at six o'clock the

next morning, and found ourselves abreast of the harbor at

Newcastle. We saw little to admire in this township, and believe

its principal recommendation to be an abundant supply of

indifferently-good coal. We reached the pretty township of

Raymond Terrace in time to partake of a sumptuous breakfast with

the Rev. Mr. Spencer, the officiating minister of that place. We

waited for the arrival of the "Cornubia", on board of which vessel

was our baggage, horses, and another group of our

future compagnons de voyage—Mr. James Perry, saddler; Mr.

Boecking, cook; and a Mr. Myers (as far as we remember),

professor of music—to which we were introduced.

The next morning we started for Irrawing, the residence of James

King, Esq., long celebrated for his growth and manufacture of

colonial wine, as well as having been the first to establish a

pottery for the manufacture of delf. Here we took the remainder of

our horses, which had been grazing in Mr. K.'s paddock. awaiting

our arrival; after which we proceeded to the residence of

Lieutenant Caswell, where we were again kindly received, and our

whole party most hospitably entertained until the following

morning. From hence we made a start for the village of Stroud, at

Port Stevens, the head station of the Australian Agricultural

Company, at that time under the management of Captain P.P. King,

of the Royal Navy. Dr. Leichhardt was anxious to reach that

establishment, as he wished to see the twelve mules he had bought

from the company, being apprehensive that some delay would be

necessary in breaking in these playful animals. He had also

purchased from William Charles Wentworth, Esq., M.L.C., the

flock of Thibet goats, consisting of 270 head, at five shillings

each. The doctor's object in this purchase was that he conceived

they would easily travel, and furnish a supply of meat during theearly part of the expedition, in which case they would not impede

our progress; and by the time that portion of our live stock was

consumed, our mainstay, the bullocks, would be quiet, and carry

us to Swan river, even should the time exceed the period of three

years.

We made an early start, as the distance from hence to Stroud was

of a somewhat hilly character. In the course of the day's journey,

we had an opportunity, for the first time, of seeing some fine

specimens of the apple-tree gum (Angophera latifolia), Sterculia

heterophylla (Corryong tree of the northern districts), and, among

crevices in the sandstone-rock, the Dwarf zamia.

On reaching the end of our journey, we were, as usual, kindly met

and welcomed by the inhabitants, who furnished accommodation

to the whole of the party during our sojourn, which exceeded a

fortnight.

At Stroud, the various little gardens were divided by hedges of

rose-trees, geraniums, olives, lemon and orange trees; the latter

were of luxuriant growth, and had been clipped in the same

manner as the larch, yew, and similar trees in Britain. The doctor

was not wrong as regarded the mules, which proved to be stubborn

to the fullest extent of the proverb—"stubborn as a mule", and as

active as monkeys. Not to tire the reader with what might be

appropriately termed "a chapter of accidents", the consequence of

the attempt at breaking in the mules, and in the course of which an

indelibly-impressed mark of an acute crescent, the result of a kick

on the shin, fell to our share, it will be sufficient to state that Dr.

Leichhardt purchased from the company fourteen, for which he

paid fourteen pounds ten shillings per head. Many of these

animals were of a cross from the Cleveland breed of horses, and in

some cases were upwards of seventeen hands high. Mr. Hovendon

Hely was despatched, in company with Wommai, a black fellow,

native of Port Stephens, to Windermere, one of Mr. Wentworth's

stations, for the purpose of bringing in the flock of goats. In threedays they returned with their interesting flock of live stock. The

prevailing color of the goats was white, the lot consisting entirely

of ewes and wethers, and did not include a single billy.

Fortunately, however, we were very kindly presented with a quiet

and perfect male specimen by a gentleman at Gloster. This animal

was a great pet with Wommai, the native, who, at his urgent

request, was allowed to accompany us in the expedition; and,

during its continuance, the reader will discover that he did

"yeoman's service.”

Everything being now, as the doctor imagined, in readiness, and as

he wished to reach the bounds of civilisation as early as possible,

we made another start for the table land of New England.

It must have been extremely gratifying to Dr. Leichhardt's feelings

to witness the many very liberal offers made to himself and party

by the various residents at this interesting village, each person

vieing with the other in pressing upon our acceptance articles

which they considered might be of service to us during our long

and solitary journey through the wilderness; but as the main

feature of the expedition was to take only such articles as could

not be dispensed with, they were politely declined.

Perhaps in no part of the work could an outline of the very limited

amount of stores, and other matters, which our means of carriage

allowed, be more appropriately famished to our readers.

It is, of course, generally understood that our only way of

transporting our supplies was on the backs of the mules taken

from Stroud; each mule carrying one hundred weight and a half.

The loads were so arranged as to be packed in three separate lots,

fifty pounds in each leathern bag on either side of the animal, and

the third placed on the top, so as partly to rest on the side loads;

and over all was thrown and buckled a strong leathern belt, or

circingle. The quantity of flour taken was just sufficient to admit

of a daily allowance of three ounces and a half to each man for a

period of eight months, by which time it was supposed that theywould have become sufficiently abstemious in their habits to

enable them to dispense with that "staff of life" during the

remainder of the journey, which it was expected would terminate

in two years from that period. The party consisted of nine

individuals: this quantity was usually made into a damper, and

subdivided into nine parts; and we can assure our readers that to

nine hungry fellows it appeared to be a mighty small affair. As

regarded the meat department, that was allowed to carry itself in

the shape of bullocks. Of clothing, each man took two pairs of

spare trousers, one pair of blucher boots, one blanket, and other

articles upon the same ratio; we had also each a light oiled calico

poncho, through which in wet weather we were enabled to poke

our head; and the bottom part of that article thus protected our

lower limbs, as well as forming a shelter to our saddle-bags and

blankets, which were strapped over the horse's withers; we had

also thereon fastened, by their double wire handles, two pannikins,

which were so made as that the smaller fitted into the larger one

where it was fastened. We had also two small tents made

(unfortunately) of the same (by far too thin and light) material as

the ponchos, into which we, so long as they continued tenable,

crept and sheltered ourselves from the wet and inclement weather,

for which the year that we commenced our journey (1846) was

remarkable.

During our journey from Stroud to Gloster, we passed over some

fine,, rich, but broken country; and among the crevices of the moss

and lichen-covered blocks of rock, we saw some beautiful species

of Epiphites, Dendrobium linguiformis, Dendrobium speciosum,

and a smaller glaucous-leaved species; with Acrosticum alcicorne,

Cymbidium sauveolens. The glutinous but sweetly-tasted berries

appeared to be much relished by the aborigines, as well as by

ourselves subsequently during our long journey in the wilderness,

as by that time there was not the slightest degree of fastidiousness

remaining among us, We were kindly entertained at this place byMr. Darby, whose residence was beautifully situated near the base

of two remarkably bluff-looking mountains, called the Buckens.

Here we had the pleasure of meeting, for the first time, a

gentleman who has since made himself, or has been made, the

subject of a world-wide reputation, and for some time formed an

ample field for colonial discussion. It is needless to say that the

party to whom we allude is Mr. Hargraves, who, on that occasion,

certainly could lay no claim to the precept held out in the much-

quoted line, "Coming events cast their shadows before," as he was

then looking for timber, in which he was a dealer; and not for what

has since, by an extraordinary accident, laid the basis of a

magnificent fortune—Gold.

We still continued our journey, through small farms and stations,

the property of the company, and through which ran many free-

flowing streams and rivers. At all of these places we were kindly

treated; and on the Monday following the time of leaving Stroud,

we commenced the ascent of Hungry Hill, whose top forms the

table land of New England.

In the course of our ascent up the hill, we observed, for the first

time, the large hillocks made by the white ant; many of them three

to four feet in height, and, being constructed of the deep red clay

common to the locality, they presented a singular and imposing

appearance. Where they are situated near a hut, the hutkeepers

convert them into ovens for baking bread; and in any case they

form, if properly managed, floors as firm as Roman cement. We

reached the top of Hungry Hill early in the evening, and were

heartily welcomed by Mr. Lowry, the superintendent of the station,

which also belonged to the A.A. Company.

After spelling one day at Mr. Lowry's, on the following morning

we commenced our descent on the other side of the hill. We

reached the residence of Mr. Thomas Rusden, at Salisbury Plains,New England, where we were kindly entertained until the arrival

of the rest of the party in charge of the goats.

The nights here were very cold. The elevation, taken by the

boiling water apparatus of the Rev. W.B. Clarke, of St. Leonard's,

was 3,127 feet.

From Salisbury Plains, we continued our journey over New

England, through Falconer Plains, at an elevation of 4,386 feet,

until reaching Rosenthall, the station of Mr. Bracker, at Darling

Downs. Here we remained a few days, and made our final

departure for Jimba, the furthest advanced station, and from where

we intended entering upon our travels through the wilderness.

Not to tire the reader, it will be sufficient to remark that our

journey from Rosenthall to this station was over a country

unequalled in any other part of Australia, either as regards beauty

of scenery, variety of surface, or the rich character of its grazing

capabilities. All the intervening stations are situated on creeks and

watercourses, falling from the western slope of the coast range,

meandering through rich extensive plains until they join the

Condamine river, which appears to form for a great distance the

separation of the sandstone country to the westward from the rich

volcanic plains to the eastward. These plains have become

remarkable as the depositories of the remains of extinct species of

animals of a gigantic size—the marsupial representatives of

the Pachydermal order of other continents.

The station of Messrs. Hughs and Isaacs (Gowrie) has proved to

be wonderfully prolific in the production of these gigantic

remains; indeed, fresh specimens generally offer themselves after

an unusually high flood, when portions of the banks of the creek

and water-courses have given way. We believe Mr. Isaacs deserves

credit for having sent the first perfect specimens for the

examination of Professor Owen, of London, who devoted a

pamphlet to that especial subject. It is, perhaps, remarkable thatsimilar remains should have been discovered in the vicinity of the

Hopkins, Lake Colac, and other parts of the Port Phillip district.

Among the herbage, which was luxuriant, were many plants of

the Leguminous order, consisting of several species of Swainsonia,

whose blossoms were both large and showy, and of the most

brilliant colors; amidst which, in the richest soil and most

sheltered situations, the Glycine bimaculata, and large groups of

the Crinum, white lily. The Mimosa terminalis (native sensitive

plant) was most abundant, its densely pinnatifid

phyllodia collapsing at the slightest touch. In places which were

slightly elevated, many species of Acacia made their appearance,

including the celebrated Weeping Myall (A. pendula), with an

erect-growing species, known as Coxen's Myall. The timber was

principally composed of the box and apple-tree, together with the

Moreton Bay ash and three species of the Eucalypti.

On reaching Jimba, we had the satisfaction of finding that Mr.

John Mann had arrived from Moreton Bay with our stores, which

he had brought from Sydney by sea, as also a Mr. Turnbull, from

Port Stevens.

Our party now consisted of nine individuals. Dr. Ludwig

Leichhardt, leader; Daniel Bunce, botanist and naturalist; John

Mann, draftsman; Hovenden Hely; James Perry, saddler; Henry

Boecking, a German cook; Mr. Turnbull, assistant stock-keeper:

Wommai (alias Jemmy), and Harry Brown, both aboriginal

natives of Port Stevens. The latter had accompanied Dr.

Leichhardt in his former expedition to Port Essington. Of stock,

we had 108 sheep, which had been presented to the party by the

various gentlemen through whose stations we had travelled; Mr.

Dennis, of Jimba, having very liberally given twenty out of the

number. Our goats were 270, bullocks forty, horses fifteen, mules

thirteen.On December 7, 1846, having made every necessary preparation,

we left Jimba, and, following the course of the Condamine river,

which now presented a mere chain of water holes, we made a

station which had been lately taken up by a Mr. Goggs, formerly

of the firm of Goggs and Walpole, whose station was on the Yarra

Yarra, near the Survey Paddock, Richmond, now called

Hawthorne.

December 8.—Left for Mr. Stephens', another advanced station on

the Condamine, the doctor and myself driving the goats and sheep.

This was a tedious day's journey to the party in charge of the cattle

and stores, as well as ourselves, owing to the frequency

of Brigalowe scrub, which rendered the course very circuitous.

The Brigalowe is a species of hard-wooded Acacia, apparently

identical with the rosewood Acacia of Moreton Bay. At the latter

place it assumes the character of a tree of considerable height, and

isolated. Its leaves are long and slightly falcate, and of a silvery

grey color. In addition to the scrub, the long, tangled tussocks of

grass and Polygonum, offered great impediments to the sheep and

goats; and we were compelled to camp for the night. Having no

provisions, we had to fast until the following morning.

December 9.—We made an early start this morning for the station

of Mr. Stephens, where we found that our companions had arrived

late the night before, with the cattle, mules, and stores. Owing to

the fatigue attendant on yesterday's stage, the doctor determined

on remaining a day to rest the sheep and goats, as well as to enable

the party to wash what clothes they might have dirty. We, of

course, made up for our long fast of the preceding day and night.

Peculiar to the scrub through which we passed, was a species

of Lemonia, producing a fruit the size of a small apple. The stem

is famished with small privet-like leaves, and armed with thorns,

or spines, of considerable length, very sharp, and consequently,

however agreeable their produce, the shrubs themselves formed anunpleasant obstruction to our movements while travelling through

the scrub in which they abounded.

The weeping Myall was here literally overgrown with a very

pretty and showy species of Loranthus, This parasite was at the

t i m e i n b l o s s o m , a n d o f w h i c h w e o b t a i n e d

specimens. Pentophyllum elatum and Ranunculus inundatus were

common in and around the melon holes, which were frequent, and

of a tenacious and calcareous nature. The horses ate greedily of a

species of Eryngium. A new composite, with white blossoms,

made its appearance. The banks of the river were lined with the

dark, sombre-colored Casuarina, of a tall pyramidal growth,

These trees presented the nearest approach to the fir tribe of any

we had as yet seen. The heaps of a large kind of muscle shell

(Unio.) were apparent on the banks of the river and in the scrubs,

to which they had probably been carried, cooked, and eaten by the

natives, whose tracks were plainly to be seen. We disturbed many

of the short, knobby-tailed sleeping lizard (Agama); Jemmy killed

one, from which he took a number of eggs with soft shells, which

he cooked and ate; he very kindly invited us to partake of his

dainty repast. Kangaroo and Wallabee tracks crossed the scrubs in

various directions.

December 10. Left Stephens' station, which proved to be the last

between us and the wilderness, and from the time of leaving

whence we expected to be confined to our own little party until we

succeeded in reaching the "land of the west," namely, Swan River;

and in order to effect which the doctor conceived would take at

least between two and three years. The reader may easily imagine

the cordial and friendly parting we took of our friends the

Stephens prior to leaving the station.

We continued a north by west course, following the valley of the

Condamine, until half-past two p.m., when we camped, having

accomplished, as we supposed, a distance of ten miles. About

seven miles from Stephens' station, and thirty-two from Jimba, wefound the skull of a horse, which on showing to Dr. Leichhardt, he

at once pronounced as being the remains of the one formerly left

by Mr. Pemberton Hodgson, while prosecuting the search for the

doctor, during the time he was supposed to have been lost, while

engaged in exploring the country between Moreton Bay and Port

Essington. His alleged death created no ordinary sensation at the

time, and was the theme of some very elegant and touching verses

by his friend Lieutenant Lynd and others.

At a short distance from were we found the skull, a heap of bones

was also seen; they had been partly burnt, and evidently formed a

portion of the same animal.

The white lily grew here in patches, on the red puffy soil,

producing a large coated bulb like the onion; its seeds are spongy

and resemble the human testes, and from this circumstance the

natives call it Byarrong, their name for that part of the body. They

made us understand that the bulbs were a deadly poison. For

dinner a fat cake was made of two pounds of flour, and afterwards

divided into nine portions; and to avoid anything like partiality in

the distribution, one of the party turned his back while another

(Mr. Mann) called out to know to whom the pieces he then

touched were to be given. This system was continued during the

whole term of the expedition. Our night watching was divided into

four parts, two persons in each watch of two and a half hour's

duration. Latitude of our camp, 26 deg. 46 sec. 23 min.

December 11.—This day, for the first four or five miles, our

course was N.W. and by N. when we came suddenly upon a large

patch of boggy soil, into which the mules would persist m going,

and several of them became bogged up to their girths. The spade

that we had brought with us for the twofold purpose of either

digging wells or graves, as either became requisite was brought

into use in extricating them from the mud. After catching and

reloading the mules we made another starts changing our course towest and by north. The country was a red, puffy sand, and very

wet, and laborious travelling for the horses and mules. We

encamped at three p.m., at what the Doctor called Charley's Creek.

We had scarcely succeeded in unloading the mules, when L were

visited by a very heavy shower of rain, accompanied by thunder

and lightning. After the weather had cleared up, we rigged our two

thin calico tents, and a sheep was killed for the first time in

preference to another goat, the latter being the best travellers. On

unpacking our kitchen utensils, we found that the handle of our

only fryingpan was unfortunately broken, this was a source of

great vexation to Bucking, the cook. From the number of tracks of

black fellows seen during the day's stage, we had every reason to

apprehend the close proximity of those sable gentry, and a close

watch was ordered to be kept during the night.

About ten o'clock there was a great commotion in the camp, many

parties imagining that they saw a small fire in the distance, of

course supposed to proceed from a camp of blacks. At eleven

p.m., during the doctor's watch, the whole of our stock, excepting

three horses, and the sheep and goats, gallopped off

simultaneously at great speed through the mud up the creek, nor

could we account for this unusual commotion, unless by

supposing that they had either seen or smelt the black fellows,

who, for the remainder of the night were supposed to be, as our

two black fellows remarked, close up.

December 12.—It was not until daylight this morning that we

discovered we had the three horses remaining, on two of which

Mr. Hely and Brown were dispatched in search of the missing

cattle. At noon a number of blacks made their appearance, to

whom we perhaps unjustly attributed the loss of our stock, for

which reason they met with a very cool reception; indeed, the

doctor waved them off with his hand. This was a hint they could

not or would not understand, as they continued for some time to

advance towards us; they at length, however, turned in thedirection of a small patch of scrub, where they made a small fire

and camped. In a short time the doctor visited them, taking with

him the handle of the fryingpan, which he presented to them. They

did not appear to appreciate this gift very highly, as after looking

at it they threw it carelessly on the ground. Among their number

was a fine chubby little boy, who caught hold of my hand, in

which I had a small piece of tobacco: "Bacco by ———,"

exclaimed the little urchin, shewing they had not only seen whites

before, but had picked up as usual some of the worst words used

in our language, and what was more remarkable, it proved to be

the extent of their knowledge of English, as we endeavoured to

obtain from them some information respecting our missing stock,

but we could not succeed in making ourselves understood. Many

of these blacks appeared to have a habit of closing one eye, or that

organ was wanting altogether; they appeared to suffer much from

ophthalmia, and each individual carried a small branch for the

purpose of brushing off the flies which were both numerous and

troublesome, and settled in large numbers around their eyes. Their

bodies were horribly scarified, evidently inflicted by sharp

weapons. We afterwards learned that they were in the habit of

fighting hand to hand, inflicting on each other deep and

dangereous wounds with pieces of stone, wood, bones, and other

articles made sharp, and used for fighting instruments. I was much

struck by the similarity of many of their words to those used by

the aborigines at Melbourne, as instance the following, which are

precisely the same: head, cowong; foot, geenong; eyes, myrring;

nose, cong; leg, thirrong; mouth, worong; hair, yarragong;

whiskers, yarra-gondock; teeth, leeang; fire, weenth; water,

baanth; bark, willam; sun, nowing; moon, menia; this word

slightly differs, as the blacks at Melbourne call that planet

Meeniyang. There is also a trifling difference in their name for

stars, tutbiern, the Melbourne word, being toothyroong. Mr.

Turnbull and Wommai, who had al§o been in search of the cattle,

returned in the evening without success. They tracked them to adense brigalowe scrub; among the cattle tracks they observed

those of two blackfellows, who had very probably been the cause

of the dilemma. Neither Mr. Hely nor Brown returned this night.

The thermometer at two p.m., 104, while hanging under the shade

of a large gum tree. Latitude 26° 44’.

December 13.—Sunday.—Mr. Turnbull and Wommai were again

despatched for the cattle, &c., with instructions to follow on the

tracks left yesterday.

The weather being oppressively hot, Mr. Mann and myself entered

the creek for the purpose of bathing, but our aquatic gambols were

of very short continuance, as we observed many snakes in the

vicinity. Their heads were the only parts at first observable, and

we imagined they were nothing more than small aquatic insects,

until one landed on the opposite bank, when his whole length was

displayed, and we were no longer in doubt as to their character.

We lost no time in getting ashore, and gave the reptiles absolute

possession of the creek. The mosquitoes were very numerous, and

we were not long in finishing our toilette.

Took a stroll along the bank of the creek, when I found its course

to be from E.N.E. to W.S.W.; it abounded in the small tortoise. I

found the following plants: Zornia, a small trailing species with

orange-coloured blossoms, and rough articulated seed-pods. Two

species of Solanum or Kangaroo apple. Stenochilus, two species:

the one a dwarf shrub, the other growing to the size of a small tree.

One very odoriferous Cassia: three species of Grewia, These

plants have leaves exactly resembling the filbert nut trees; their

fruit is a three-celled capsule, the flavour being that of the raisin of

commerce. This agreeable taste is only extracted, however, by

means of pounding or crushing the fruit between the teeth or

otherwise. We afterwards, when in the tropics, were in the habit of

collecting, crushing between stones, and afterwards boiling this

fruit in water, which yielded a very pleasant and agreeable

beverage, not to be despised by those who, like ourselves, werenot in a position to become even as abstemious as teetotallers; as a

very short time after leaving civilisation sugar was a forbidden

article to all but the leader; of tea, however, we had plenty, but

without sugar even that was not much appreciated. Speaking for

myself, I, in the absence of sugar, preferred the pure element, cold

water. In the evening Turnbull and Wommai returned with some of

the mules and horses. Meteoric appearances or falling stars were

very frequent this night to the northward and westward. Lightning

very vivid was also seen from the westward. Thermometer at

noon, 98; half-past three p.m., 110. I here commenced a practice

which I afterwards followed at every convenient opportunity

where the soil and situation was suitable, of sowing seeds of the

most useful fruit and vegetables. The snakes here were both

numerous and large; they were also bold and fearless in proportion

to their size. Mr. Turnbull and Wommai were attacked to-day

while following the track of the cattle through a thick Brigalowe

scrub, by one of these monsters of the brown kind!

December 14.—In the course of the night some of the horses and

mules again escaped, and Wommai was sent in search of them; he

returned about noon, having found those for which he was looking

as well as some that had strayed previously. Dr. Leichhardt, Mr.

Turnbull and Mr. Bucking, went also to look for the mules. About

four p.m. Mr. Hely and Brown returned with all the cattle, they

had tracked them through a dense Brigalowe scrub to Mr. Gogg's

station. At seven p.m. the doctor and his companions returned

after a fruitless search. I collected seeds of a new Glycine, saw

also another scarlet flowering species of the same genera, seeds

not ripe. Along the banks of the creek I found a new species of

bean, with long round dagger-like pods, and the blossoms large

and richly scented, with many species of grasses, which I believe

have not as yet been described; very common among the other

plants was the little Australian Sensitive Mimosa (Acacia

terminalis); this plant possesses contractility and the power ofmimicking animal sensibility in as great a degree as the sensitive

plant (Mimosa pudica) of South America. I also collected seeds of

a very handsome Swainsonia. The natives here collected and eat

the bulbous root of a pretty species of Atrodium. The day until

four p.m. was cloudy, and the glass stood at 81.

December 15.—The only stock missing at this time were eleven

horses and mules, to obtain, which Mr. Hely and Wommai were

despatched in one, and Mr. Turnbull and Brown. in another

direction. The two former returned at four p.m. after an

unsuccessful search. Took another stroll down the creek to relieve

the monotony of our long sojourn at this camp, and found a

species of Jasminum, with blossoms white, waxy, and very sweet,

and an interesting plant belonging to the Hedysareæ of Jussieu.

Dr. Leichhardt had also taken a stroll up the creek and returned

with specimens of the very remarkable pendulent and arborescent

Hakea Lowria, and native daffodil or Callostemma, a bulbous

plant belonging to the Amaryllideæ, Charlie's Greek joins the

Condamine river about nine miles from our camp. At six p.m. two

messengers arrived on horseback with a letter to the doctor,

intimating the return of Sir Thomas Mitchell, and as an inspection

of Sir Thomas's despatches were likely to form an important

feature in our expedition, Dr. L. made arrangements for returning

to Darling Downs on the morrow for that purpose. Thermometer

four p.m., 98 in the shade.

December 16.—The doctor sent Mr. Hely to Darling Downs,

instead of performing that journey himself. Mr. Turnbull and

Brown returned after a useless search. After dinner the doctor and

two native black fellows went in search of the missing stock; his

two companions never having been on a horse before, mounted

with caution. They returned with four; Wommai shot some ducks.

Several birds of the Ibis kind, having beautifully bronze-coloured

plumage, made their appearance. Weather very close and hot. The

saddler very busy altering the pack-saddles; the party taking turn-about herding cattle. There was a great quantity of a succulent

species of Portulacca, growing at this place on the banks of the

creeks, which was boiled and eaten as a vegetable.

December 17.—Having been tolerably successful yesterday with

his naked body guards, the doctor continued their acquaintance

and went again in quest of the horses, &c., but returned, having

been less fortunate than on the former occasion; he brought with

him specimens of the Capparis Mitchellii, having large fruit, with

a long stalk, the size of an apple, and leaves like the orange; the

fruit was very pungent. Also a plant with leaves and thorns like

the Bursaria, but producing a fruit as large as a plum. In the

afternoon we were visited by a heavy thunder-storm, which was

very agreeable, as the weather previously had been hot and sultry.

December 18.—Mr. Mann, myself, and Wommai went up the

creek to select a crossing-place, and found one at the distance of

three miles; found a very pretty species of Symphetum and

one Cassia. Our old friends, the blacks, whom we had seen on

first making the creek, returned, bringing with them their gins, as

well as my young friend who had so great a penchant for tobacco.

They made their camp close to ours, much against the wish of Dr.

Leichhardt. In the evening, much thunder, lightning, and heavy

rain, which continued until midnight, when my watch

commenced.

December 19.—This morning two of the black fellows had

breakfast with us, on the understanding that they were to

accompany Mr. Turnbull and Brown to look for the mules. I say

on the understanding, as far as we were concerned, but the fact

was that they themselves understood nothing more than that they

were getting a good feed. They went, however, and returned,

having found one mule and one horse. Preserved specimens

of Phillanthus, Cassia, Fimbristylus, Justitia, Sida, and another

smaller kind of bean with yellow blossoms. Thunder and lightningagain in the evening, accompanied with rain. Thermometer, 6

a.m., 66; at 3 p.m., 90; sunset, 71. Wind from the S.W.

December 20.—Sunday.—The doctor. Brown, and the two black

fellows again went in search of the mules. At one o'clock they

returned, the doctor suffering from diarrhœa. I give a few more

words of these natives (Charlie's Creek): Bockara, boy;

Condamine river, Yandukal; a' a' da, wood; Thonee, woman;

Thanthi, no good; Booathanth, stinking; Boging, dog; Gothong,

cloud; N'yan n'yan, pot; Pard'ng, grass; Koranga, reed; Knownong,

fœces; Powang, opossum. Thermometer, sunrise, 66, 2 p.m., 88;

half-past five p.m. 82, in the shade. The pumpkins and some of the

other seeds sown on the 13th made their appearance above

ground.

December 21.—Mr. Turnbull and Brown were again despatched

for the mules. Among the blacks who returned, yesterday was one

more intelligent than any we had as yet seen; and he made

his debût at our camp in the character of a wandering minstrel,

singing as he went, or rather as he approached, for want of

thought, the old English ballad—

He promised to buy me a bunch of blue ribbons,

He promised to buy me a bunch of blue ribbons,

He promised to buy me a bunch of blue ribbons,

To tie up my tiddelle lol de dol de dol de da.

The last, words appeared to be sung, or added, more from his

having forgotten, or never having known, the finish of the verse in

English, than as a chorus to the song. It was not until he had sung

it two or three times, that we became aware of the name of the

song, and we were even then more indebted to the air, which he

was very perfect in, than to the words. His sable friends appeared

to be much delighted at our enjoyment of Mr. Dennis' song. The

said Mr. D. proved to have a very perfect knowledge of the

geography of his own and the adjoining country. He drew a rough

sketch on the sand, showing the number and bearings of thedifferent water-courses for a distance, as we afterwards

discovered, of 150 miles. He represented the Condamine river as

being joined a long way lower down by many more creeks, when

it at times formed a vast body of water. This we afterwards, on our

Fitzroy Downs' expedition, found to be the case, as the river is

then called the Balonne, which, in the season of floods, leaves the

surrounding country inundated for many miles; we saw

watermarks on the large trees, six feet at least above the ground, at

a considerable distance from, the river. Thermometer at sunrise,

65; noon, 85; sunset, 72.

December 22.—The creek had risen much within the last twenty-

four hours. Our friend, the musical Dennis, took his departure. I

gave him an old penny-piece, on which I had engraved, as neatly

as I could, his name. This would appear to be the first piece of

British currency he had ever handled, and he was apparently

pleased with the Queen's head. Being in a state of nudity, and

innocent of pockets, I put it in a small bag for him, after which he

departed. Before going, however, he expressed a strong desire that

we should follow the course of the Condamine, as far as we could

judge by his signs, until we had made one of the water-courses

which he had marked in the sands, and which we afterwards

discovered to be Bottle Tree Creek. He appeared to signify that, by

going in a north or north-easterly course, we should fall in with

much Brigalow scrub, and many wild black fellows. I took rather

a long stroll to-day over the red, sandy, puffy plains, and obtained

specimens of three fresh Leguminous plants, a (to me) new species

of Stackhousia, and a yellow, flowering Senecio. The goats' flesh

appeared not to agree with any of the party excepting the doctor

and myself, causing a laxity in the bowels. Nothing more having

been heard of the stray mules, the doctor began to despair of

finding them; and, in the event of their not being forthcoming

before Mr. Hely's return with Sir Thomas Mitchell's despatches, he

determined on using a large portion of the flour and sugar as fastas possible, leaving the more necessary kind of stores to be carried

by the mules at present at the camp.

From the heat of the weather and the large number of flies, great

part of our mutton was generally spoiled before it was eaten,

although we tried both smoking it by the fire, and burying it

underground. Thermometer, sunrise, 65; noon, 89; sunset, 80.

December 23.—In addition to the common flies, we were this day

much annoyed by the small sand-flies, whose bite was as sharp as

the mosquito's. Thermometer, sunrise, 60; noon, 88.

December 24.—The doctor and Mr. Mann rode to Kent's lagoon,

and in travelling through a Brigalowe scrub he found and brought

me a rare specimen of Hibiscus, They also found a duck's nest

containing nine eggs, a rather singular number, being exactly one

for each of the party. They were reserved for to-morrow, which

being Christmas day, we were promised a tapioca pudding. In the

evening Mr. Perry, the saddler, who was out herding the cattle, did

not reach the camp at dark, and fearing that he had lost himself, or

that some accident had befallen him, the doctor and Wommai went

in search, the leader taking a horn with him which he blew with all

his might, and Wommai firing a gun continually. At the distance of

a mile from the camp, they heard him cooeying, in answer to the

horn and gun. He was driving the cattle up instead of down the

creek, having, as we had anticipated, lost his way. The party were

in high spirits, which was evidently pleasing to the doctor's

feelings. Thermometer at daybreak, 60; noon, 82; sundown, 79.

December 25.—Christmas day, and a smoking hot one; tapioca

pudding, each man having as much as he could eat, and had no

occasion, like Oliver Twist, to ask for more. Thermometer at

daybreak, 69; noon, 89; four p.m., 86.

December 26.—Early this morning two more black fellows paid

us a visit. They were quite strangers, and to judge from theirhaving no knowledge of a single word of English, and their timid

manner of approaching our camp, had evidently seen but little,

possibly nothing of white people before; they were ushered into

our presence by those already camping near us. As far as we could

make out by their signs they had seen two of our missing mules,

as they mimicked the actions of these animals in hobbles, and held

up two fingers, evidently meaning that as being the number they

had seen.

The doctor had gone this morning with Wommai to have another

search for the mules, and returned at noon, having found some of

them in a small richly pastured opening, surrounded by Brigalowe

scrub. He had taken with him the bugle, from which he blew a

long and loud blast to announce his successful return. Some of us

went to meet him, and we were followed by the whole of the black

fellows; on our giving the leader three cheers, they joined to a

man, and the noise was almost deafening. Thermometer, two a.m.,

66; noon, 92; five p.m., 88.

December 27.—Sunday. This morning the doctor and Wommai

went with the two wild natives to look for the mules, which we

supposed by their signs they had seen when on their way to our

camp. They returned, however, at noon, after a long and useless

ride. It was evident that they had either misled ns with the belief of

having seen the mules, with the view of obtaining some damper

and meat, or we had altogether misunderstood them: the one

conjecture was just as probable as the other. Their ride, however,

was not altogether without its use, as the doctor found and brought

me some very fine specimens of the Logania, growing to the size

of a small tree, with semi-pinnatified foliage. Our dog Spring

caught a fine brush Kangaroo. Thermometer, sunrise, 64; noon,

89. It is to be understood that the glass was always kept in the

shade.

December 28.—The doctor despatched the two wild black fellows

with a letter stuck in a cleft stick, to be taken or forwarded bythem to Mr. Dennis or Mr. Bell, at Jimba, the object of the letter

being to request either of those gentlemen to engage one of their

civilised natives to interpret for those who delivered the letter,

with the view of learning something respecting our missing stock,

as we had altogether failed in making ourselves understood.

Another diseased goat was killed, the flesh of which had the effect

of giving the whole of our party a violent attack of vomiting and

dysentery. In addition to which, they suffered much (myself

excepted) from ophthalmia, occasioned by the flies perpetually

settling around their eyes, where they so firmly attached

themselves as to be readily killed, a dozen at one time. After

crushing these insects, a most unpleasant and fœtid smell

remained on the hand. So numerous were they, that it was utterly

impossible to keep the eyes more than half open. A solution of

nitrate of silver was used as a dressing for the eyes affected.

Thermometer, noon, 92; 4 p.m., 93; sunset, 82½.

December 29.—The doctor and Wommai returned to the camp at

noon, from an excursion undertaken with the view of ascertaining

if it was possible, on leaving this camp, to travel in a direct course

without the intervention of Brigalowe scrub. The weather being

oppressively hot, we erected a kind of arcade, covered with

boughs, which served in some measure to protect us from the heat

of the sun. Wommai shot two ducks, which we had for tea, and

found them a most desirable improvement upon the diseased

goat's flesh. Saw, for the first time, some whistling ducks, which

were common here; they were smaller than the common black

duck, and their plumage resembled the sparrow hawk.

Thermometer at sunrise, 64; noon, 85; 6 p.m., 90; sundown, 83.

Collected, from curiosity, to-day, upwards of thirty distinct kinds

of grasses, highly nutritious, and eaten greedily by our cattle

within a circuit of three miles of our camp. On mentioning this

fact in a letter written and addressed to the Argus, sent with the

two black fellows in a cleft stick with the doctor's, I afterwards, onmy return, read in one of the Adelaide papers, where it had been

copied, the number of distinct grasses being, by mistake, stated as

250.

December 30.—As none of the missing mules, after the most

diligent search and inquiry, were forthcoming, and as many of the

others had sore backs, the doctor, with the view of lightening the

loads, and moreover being determined to travel with those we at

present possessed, he determined on eating 150 lbs. of flour as

speedily as possible; and when it is considered that, since leaving

the settled districts, we had been restricted to the ninth part of a

two-pound damper daily, it was no wonder that we were

somewhat elated at the prospect of having this addition to our

daily quantity of bread, although we were fully aware that our

rejoicing was premature, and we should feel its effects ultimately.

What with the flies, bad eyes, musquitos, and our inactive

position, the party were waiting anxiously for Mr. Hely to return

with the despatches, when we should be enabled to make a fresh

start, and progress on our long and mysterious journey.

Thermometer, sunrise, 60; noon, 89; sundown, 82.

December 31.—This day a fine fat sheep was killed as a change to

the goat's flesh, which appeared to disagree with the party, and in

consequence of new year's day, to-morrow, when, in addition to

the mutton, we were promised by the leader a suet pudding, with

the additional indulgence of sugar. Thermometer, sunrise, 60;

noon, 89; sundown, 83.

January, 1, 1847.—New year's day, and like Christmas, it was a

smoker. For dinner we had our promised suet and sugar pudding.

After dinner, I took a walk with Wommai, crossed the creek, and

went towards Kent's Lagoon to look for plants and duck's eggs;

found a few of the former, but none of the latter. Thermometer,

sunrise, 64; nine a.m., 89; noon, 98; sunset, 80.January 2.—A number of black fellows again paid us a visit, and

among them our old, intelligent, and musical friend, Mr. Dennis.

They reported the safe delivery of the letter sent by the two wild

fellows to Mr. Dennis and Mr. Bell, as well as that we might

speedily expect the return of Mr. Turnbull and Brown, and another

white fellow (Mr. Hely), who were, they said, bringing plenty

more sheep and the missing mules. We soon discovered that they

were in error in regard to the sheep and mules, as in the afternoon

Mr. Turnbull and Brown returned without bringing any sheep, and

had heard nothing of the mules. He also said that a report was

current on the Downs that we had been rushed by the blacks, and

one of the party killed. Had for dinner, by way of change, a dish of

skillagalee, instead of bread. Mr. Mann shot two enormous

guanas, measuring each five feet. They were given to our sable

friends and visitors, our time for indulging in these luxuries not

having yet arrived. Thermometer, midnight, 70; sunrise, 64; 10

a.m., in the sun, 90; from noon till half-past 4 p.m., 93 in the

shade.

January 3 Sunday.—Our camp this day was one continued scene

of mirth and activity, quite a change to our long, monotonous style

of living, occasioned by the arrival of a great number of blacks of

both sexes and all ages, from the child in its mother's arms, to men

at least six feet in height, and stout in proportion. Among them

were, without exception, some of the finest men I had ever seen as

aborigines of this colony. As the men were large in comparison to

other tribes, so were the women as proportionably small. To add to

their decrepid and' miserable appearance, they had adopted the

singular fashion of not allowing a single hair to grow on any part

of their bodies. Over their heads they frequently run a fire-stick, to

burn the hair the moment it appeared. Under the armpits, &c., I

have seen a man engaged in pulling it. Occasionally he takes

between his fingers more than one at a time, which gives / pain to

the patient, and causes her to express as much by saying, in aplaintive tone, "Yucca! yucca! eeburra!" All the Australian natives,

as far as I have observed, have some singular and superstitious

customs in regard to the hair.

In my late expedition to Adelaide, my black fellow. Jemmy,

preserved every single hair until his return to Melbourne, where he

intended burying it in some particular locality. Indeed, it is this

very remarkable custom which leads them into the still more

erroneous belief that none of their people die a natural death. No

sooner is one of their number taken ill, than he appeals to the

Kooloolook, doctor or conjuror, who tells him that a black fellow

of a neighboring tribe has visited the camp of the invalid, and

stolen some of his or her hair. If, after this, the patient dies, the

thief is said to have burnt the hair he had formerly stolen, and was

the cause of death.

Among them was a very young woman, who had several white

spots on her skin, from which circumstance she was called by our

party the Piebald. This was a problem in physiology by no means

difficult to solve, it being nothing more than an absence of the

usual quantity of pigment, or coloring matter; when this humor is

wanting in a white person, the spots are black, or what are usually

called moles. The whole of these people were on their way to the

Bunya Bunya country, for the purpose of obtaining that very

remarkable fruit, the product of the Araucaria Bidwellii. Perhaps I

shall be better understood by representing it as a species of the

Norfolk Pine, Araucaria excelsa. The present species is, however,

much larger than the latter kind, with large, feather-like branches;

altogether, perhaps a more magnificent tree it is difficult to

conceive.

The fruit is as large as a common-sized cocoanut, and, then

roasted, the taste is equal, if not superior, to a mealy potato. It is

only produced in large quantities every third year, when the

various tribes meet for many miles round to collect and eat it. It is

also said, although I am not in a position to vouch for its truth, that

the eating of this fruit gives them a strong relish for human flesh,and that many people are killed, for the purpose of appeasing their

unnatural and degraded appetites.

The Bunya bunya tree is confined to a narrow belt of elevated

country on the. coast range, averaging from twelve and a half

miles wide by twenty-five in length, and in no other part of

Australia has this plant been found. Thermometer, 2 a.m., 65;

noon, 93; 5 p.m., 88.

January 4.—Having. found all our mules, the doctor determined

not to wait longer, for Sir Thomas Mitchell's despatches; and, for

this purpose, he sent Mr. Turnbull and Brown for Mr. Hely, with

instructions to the latter gentleman to return to the party

immediately. I believe the doctor to have been led to adopt this

measure from the fact of another and a larger body of black

fellows having arrived, all being on their way for the Bunya fruit.

The number of these people at our camp at this time could not

have been less than two or three hundred. Their presence gave us

considerable trouble in. the management of our cattle, as they

could not abide their close neighborhood. Thermometer, noon, 92;

6 p.m., 88.

January 5.—By eleven o'clock this morning we had all the mules

loaded, and everything prepared for a fresh start. At half-past

eleven, we took leave of our sable friends, who appeared, as far as

we could judge by their looks, to be somewhat astonished at our

taking a course still further from civilised life. Our journey was

pretty generally over low, puffy, boggy flats, intersected by small

patches of rising ground, very scrubby, principally Cypress pine

trees (Callaetris), having an undergrowth of Dodonea

Ozothamnus Logania, Prostanthera, and another very handsome

pyramidal-growing tree, which we called white Vitex, The leaves

were of a lively green, and, when rubbed, emitted a strong bitter

smell. We camped in the evening on a small creek, a tributary of

what the blacks called Koim, Baby Creek; the bed was rotten-stone and pipe-clay. Saw many tracks of emus and kangaroos in

the bed of the creek, where they had gone for water.

January 6.—Left the camp at 10 a.m., and travelled a N.W. and W.

course. The country a loose, rotten sandstone, and very puffy. A

new species of Eucalyptus made its appearance, having foliage,

very large and bright green,—a great relief to the landscape,

contrasted with the dark, sombre, and melancholy-looking cypress

pines. About six miles after leaving, we again came to a bend of

the creek we had left, and which proved to be a tributary of

Charlie's Creek, or the northern branch of Koimbaboy. Camped at

4 p.m., on a fine chain of waterholes, called by the Doctor

Thermometer Creek, Mr. Roper having broken one of these

instruments at this place on his first expedition. Thermometer, on

camping, 109 in the shade.

January 7.—Made an early start this morning, at half-past eight;

our course being N.W. by N. Passed some finely-grassed country,

crossed Acacia Creek twice, and, at two p.m., camped on the

banks of Dogwood Creek, about two miles higher up than Dr.

Leichhardt's old camping-place, where the soil was light and

puffy, in latitude 36 deg., 24 min., 32 sec. Found in the red loose

soil an interesting species of Crassula, with blossoms blue, large,

and showy. The banks of this creek were in many places lined with

plants of the native Dogwood (Jacksonia); hence its name.

January 8.—Our course this day was N. by W. The country was

indifferent, but well watered. We crossed two creeks, running to

the eastward, and camped at three p.m., on a third. The party were

busy drying mutton in the sun. I collected seeds of two species

o f S w a i n s o n i a , A s h o n e m o n i e , C a s s i a , a n d

an Amaranthaceous plant. Mr. Buckin expressed a slight

disinclination to the performance of a part of his duties as cook,

but was immediately silenced by the doctor, whose motto, like that

of the great and immortal Nelson, was: Leichhardt insists that

every man shall do his duty.January 9.—We remained at the camp all day, for the purpose of

drying the meat. The doctor took Wommai with him on a

reconnoitering trip. He fell in with the tracks of Mr. Pemberton

Hodgson's party. The weather was oppressively hot, and the flies

troublesome. In the evening, Wommai caught some fish very like

the English perch. Along the banks of the creek was another and

remarkable kind of gum tree, having leaves large and laurel-like,

with long, oval Kalyptra. The stem was a deep brown, and the

bark fell off in small scales, which, laying in large masses at the

roots, had, at first sight, a very singular effect. Latitude, 26 deg. 16

min.

January 10.—Sunday.—Course, north; 29 deg. west. Country very

fine, interesected in every direction by waterholes, deep and

plentiful, all running into Dogwood Creek. We camped at half-past

four, p.m. On the banks of the creek were some fine specimens of

the Mallaleuca, or tea tree.

January 11.—Here we remained until the return of Mr. Hely, Mr.

Turnbull,;and Brown. Weather very hot; saw many wood ducks.

Latitude, 26 deg. 11 min. 12 sec.; longitude, 151 deg. 30 min.

Here we saw two new species of gum; the one. having the singular

property of ejecting the bark from the stems in small shell-like

pieces, which lie in large heaps at the butts of the trees, giving the

stems of the trees the appearance of having been stripped of the

bark by the natives. The other kind was very handsome: the

flowers were large and abundant; the leaves were glaucous and

laurel-like; the stems scaly, but closely attached to the trees. There

were also, here and there, trees like the quince, but smaller,

producing a fruit like a small peach, but of a bright orange color;

the taste was very pungent, and would appear to be a very great

favorite (as, indeed, are all bitter fruits) with the emus. For this

reason we were in the habit afterwards of calling it the emu peach.January 13.—Mr. Turnbull, Hely, and Brown returned without

bringing letters or information of any kind respecting Sir Thomas

Mitchell's expedition. In the afternoon, some black fellows

approached our camp, bringing in their hands branches of an

integral-leaved wattle, or Acacia, as tokens of peace. They did not,

however, come nearer than one hundred yards or so. I obtained the

following words from them, by pointing to different parts of my

body and by signs:—Bobboyarra, Dogwood Creek; mea, eyes;

somborong, mouth; geenong, foot; keering, arms; maang, hand;

maong, hair; mea, nose; deang, teeth; peenong, ears; ma-a, head;

moo, stomach; bannanoobrim, breast. By comparing these words

with those I have formerly given, and which I obtained from the

natives of Charlie's Creek, it will be seen how closely their

language assimilates with that of the Melbourne natives. I also

obtained their names for the following species of plants, which I

had then in my hand:—Tharrum, Capparis, or caper trees;

N'yangan, Cymbidium. This plant is an Epiphite, and common in

the forks of the dead or diseased gum trees. Its blossoms are a rich

waxy peach white, very sweet, and pendulant, succeeded by

clusters of fleshy-like, oblong, and octangular seed pods, which

are collected and eaten by the natives; N'yerroomburra,

an Asceplidaceous plant, which clings to the larger trees, and

produces large bags of cotton-like seed pods; Parree nettle,

Coodjarra, swamp oak (Casuarina paludosa), Meen

meerijarra, Erythrina, or fire tree, as it is sometimes called;

N'gneera, a plant belonging to the Laurinea. They represented

that, by making an incision into the stem of this tree, a violently

poisonous juice exuded, which was dangerous to be touched by

the tongue. Wommai said they meant "Cobbon, saucy fellow;"

Bookoroo cassytha, a parasite, and a very troublesome one. This

plant very much retarded our progress while travelling through

the Dodonea scrub. It produces a number of large, unwholesome,

viscid-looking berries. Booboira, another species of the Capparis,

with long, thorn-like tendrils clinging to the neighboring trees.The fruit is large and edible. Booyilling, a handsome shrub,

belonging to the Corymboseæ. Geeinjee geeinjee, a name

common, or rather applied by them to all the parasitical mosses

and lichens.

January 14.—Made another, and, as we then thought, a final start,

steering N.N.E. course for the first part of the day's stage, through

tolerably good country, which, shortly before our camping,

however, changed to rather thick, but low scrub, composed

principally of white vitex, Ozothamnus, Dodonea, Metrosideros,

and occasional clumps of Mellaleuca, or tea tree, in the highest,

driest, and poorest situations, which was something remarkable, as

these trees generally delight in wet, marshy places. Caught a very

large and beautifully-marked mantis, or animated straw, which

was crawling over Mr. Perry's shirt. Its length was, from head to

tail, ten inches. Our kangaroo dog. Swift, caught a fine kangaroo,

which was cooked and dressed for the dogs. At the distance of a

mile and a half from where we camped, we passed a remarkably-

formed conical hill, of sandstone formation, called by the doctor,

on his former expedition, Roper's Peak, in honor of Mr. Roper,

who was one of his persevering companions on that occasion. We

encamped at noon on a small creek near the grave of a black

fellow, for which reason it was called Dead Man's Creek.

15th January.—Course to-day, west, 66 deg. north, through the

most magnificent volcanic and undulating plains-like country,

equal to Darling Downs. We camped at half-past two p.m., at the

head of the River Dawson. Saw, for the first time, a fine specimen

of the Bottle tree, a Sterculiaceous plant, which, at the suggestion

of Sir Thomas Mitchell, has been determined as a new genus,

called Dela Bechia, in honor of a friend of Sir Thomas of that

name. This tree grows to the height of from forty to sixty feet, and

the stems have precisely the form of a sodawater bottle. The

blacks appear to be in the habit of cutting through the bark, and

eating the soft pulpy stem, which is almost as soft as a turnip.With the bark itself they make nets and twine. The Doctor got a

kick in the stomach from Parramatta Jenny (one of the mules). It

commenced raining heavily yesterday afternoon, shortly after

camping, and did not clear up until twelve o'clock this day. On the

banks of the Dawson I collected specimens of a (to me) new and

spineless species of Bursaria, Commelina, Convolvulacæ, another

species of bean, mimosa with very large pendulant and closely

pinnatified leaves. Glycine, and on the rich open plains, Sida,

Anthericum or Bulbine, with very large blossoms, Ruellia,

Phytolacco, Cassia, Symphetum Phillanthus, Justitia, and a very

graceful and abundant flowering Sida, five and six feet high.

16th January.—The same fine rich open country continues; our

course was west by north. Another kangaroo was killed. The dogs

gave chase to two large emus, but they took to the scrub, which

put an end to the chase.

17th January.—The country to-day rich confined plains, and belts

of Brigalowe and Dodonea scrubs alternately. Our course was

north-west. Found a very beautiful species of Pimelia, with large

globular-headed blossoms of a deep crimson; saw also in the

scrubs for the first time some very beautiful trees of the Bauhinia;

they were covered with long leguminous pods of seeds, which,

hanging among the dark and somewhat sombre-colored twin-like

leaves, had a pretty effect. About two o'clock p.m., we camped on

a tributary of the Dawson, among a small forest of silver box

saplings.

January 18.—Country nearly the same as yesterday; our course

was north. Two hours after leaving the camp, we came upon a

very large boggy flat, surrounded by silver box, Brigalowe,

Dodonea, Bauhinia, and white Vitex trees. About half-past three

p.m., we again made the river Dawson, and camped' on its

bank. ,The river had a great fresh in it, that augured badly for ourchance of crossing it lower down. Latitude, 25 deg., 54 min.

Thunder again this afternoon, but no rain.

January 20.—Travelled through a fine open country to-day;

undulating plains, with trees in the distance. About noon we

ascended a slight elevation, from whence we obtained a view of

Lynd's and Gilbert's range in the distance, the former bearing

N.W., the latter N. by W. On this patch of elevated land, was a

group of seven of the remarkable looking bottle-trees, the largest

we had yet seen. Heavy thunder again in the afternoon. The

Doctor suggests as an improvement to our flour diet, that instead

of damper or Johnny cake, each person makes his three ounces of

flour into a dish of skillagalee, as being likely to go farther, or, to

use his own words, "it would be more satisfying." After making

each man his "mess of pottage", the great difficulty was to eat it,

without swallowing with every spoonful of skilly about twenty

flies; indeed, there was no alternative but to take a fair share of

each. These were not times for being fastidious, and, after

finishing, the parties could not fail to bear testimony to the truth of

the Doctor's words, that it was more satisfying than the same

quantity of damper or fat cake. For a great part of the satisfaction I

have no doubt we were indebted to the number of flies we had

compulsorily swallowed. The Doctor complained of rheumatic

pains and palpitation of the heart. Collected a dish of portulacca,

which was boiled and' eaten, and acted on the whole of the party

in the same manner as a dish of jalap. We all suffered much from

opthalmia, occasioned by the flies. Thermometer, 8 p.m., 104 in

the shade. The day's course was north-west.

January 21.—This day the heat was excessive; the glass at noon,

108. The flies were more numerous than on any former occasion.

The leader and Wommai walked down the bank of the river to

select a crossing-place. The banks were clothed with a belt of

silver box saplings, of from a quarter to half a mile in width. I

took a stroll up the river through this miniature forest, and saw, inthe most sheltered and shady parts, large heaps of bivalve shells,

the remains of aboriginal feasts. Many of these shells were as

large as the usual sized cheese plates. Saw, also, hanging from the

branch of a large tree, a string of some seven or eight breast bones

of emus. On my mentioning this fact to Wommai, on my return to

the camp, he expressed much pleasure on hearing that I had not in

any way disturbed them. He represented them as having been

placed there by the natives in strict observance of some religious

rite or ceremony; the same, or very nearly the same custom being

followed by his own tribe at Port Stephens, of which place he was

a native. In the evening, Wommai and Brown, the other black

fellow, absented themselves from the camp; and, on going to the

scrub, we found that Wommai was taking another degree as a

young man. The blood was trickling rapidly from his breast.

Brown having inflicted thereon, with a sharp knife, some sixty or

seventy wounds. On healing up, these incisions would leave as

many swollen lumps or vesicles, which are considered by them as

adding greatly to the beauty of their personal appearance.

January 22.—We travelled down the banks of the river for the

distance of five miles, when we came to a part where we observed

that a large tree had fallen across the entire width of the stream.

This was too favorable a chance to be thrown away, and we lost no

time in availing ourselves of such unlooked-for means of getting

our stores over dry. Here, it may be truly said, that our

expeditionising commenced in earnest. To carry over our luggage

with anything like safety, we found it was necessary to do the

work barefooted; and, as the bark and other inequalities presented

a surface very different to that of a Turkey carpet, and,

independent of the log, we had to walk some distance before

reaching our primitive bridge, and the same being the case after

crossing over, ours was no pleasant task in perspective. Necessity,

they say, has, no law, and as "needs must when the d——l

drives,"we had no alternative but to set to with a good will. Thefirst task was for two of the party, to place on the head of a third

the load which it was his duty to carry over. On reaching the log, it

required a considerable share of nerve to preserve the necessary

balance during the critical journey across, the river roaring like a

torrent below. After getting fairly under weigh, it was not a little

amusing to see the caution exhibited by each individual in trying

to place his feet on the smoothest part of the log; and was a

forcible verification of the adage, "walking circumspectly". After

effecting the transit of our baggage, the next job was to cross over

the goats and sheep, neither of which would face the log. Wommai

at this juncture offered himself as architect, and succeeded in

making, with saplings, boughs, and mould, a very ingenious

substitute for a jetty running gradually down to the river. By this

means, many of the animals took to the water, and we were

progressing swimmingly, when, unfortunately, poor Wommai's

very cleverly conceived affair gave way, and we had much

difficulty in crossing the remainder. "Perseveranda et prospera",

says Leichhardt, in the midst of his employment; and, by

following the precept conveyed in the proverb, we had everything

finished by dusk, as the cattle, mules, and horses gave us but little

trouble; the only deaths which it is my melancholy duty to record

on that occasion being five goats and two sheep. I am sorry to say,

however, that this day's work was the cause of the fever and ague

which, a few days afterwards, attacked, first, myself, and

subsequently the whole of the party. In consideration of our

exertions, we were rewarded at night by the doctor with the true

pastry of the bushman, a fat cake, to which was added an extra pot

of tea with sugar.

January 23.—Left the camp at ten a.m., and travelled a north by

east course, through a very indifferent and scrubby country, until

reaching Palm-tree Creek, where we arrived just in time to catch

the benefit of a heavy storm, before we had time to erect our two

miserable calico apologies for tents. This creek was named fromthe Corypha palm-trees which adorned its banks, and than which

nothing could be more beautiful than their tall, upright, nearly

cylindrical stems, and wide-spreading umbrageous palmate leaves.

The .unexpended leaves found at the heart of the tree were very

pleasant eating; the taste being that of the Spanish chestnut.

From the heat of the day, and difficulty in driving the sheep and

goats through the scrub, poor Norval, our sheep-dog, was knocked

up.

I tried my luck in the evening, after the rain had abated, at fishing

for eels; but was not favored with as much as a nibble.

January 24.—The country improved to-day, but still continued

scrubby. Our course was W.N.W. We had Gilbert's Range in sight

the greater part of the day, bearing N.E. Encamped within two

miles of its base, on the head of Palm-tree Creek. Latitude, 25

deg., 83 min., south. During the course of the day's stage, as

Wommai and I were following with the goats and sheep (I may as

well say that we were always some miles behind those of the party

with the mules and cattle) we passed a very large sheet of water,

hall lake, half lagoon, on the opposite side of which we saw, as I

imagined, a fine bay horse, but to make assurance doubly sure, I

dispatched Wommai to the spot. He shortly afterwards returned;

he had not seen the horse, but said there was a large quantity of

horse-dung and tracks of hoofs.; he brought a portion of the dung

with him.

This being Sunday, it was again suggested to the Doctor that he, as

leader, should read the service of the Church of England. To this

request he replied that it was better for each individual to do his

share of that solemn and very necessary duty.

January 25.—We made a long stage of fifteen miles. The greater

part of the distance the country was low, flat, and swampy, very

rich diluvium, covered with a rank growth of polygonum, sedges,

rushes, and such like rank-growing, semi-aquatic plants. As

though we had not experienced sufficient misery from thesandflies, common flies, and musquitoes, we had now to

commence war with a more determined enemy than any which

had as yet beset us, in the shape of hornets of a large size, and

whose bite or sting was more painful for a time than that of a

snake, and left an immense swelling that took two or three days to

allay. These hornets were as treacherous as their sting was violent.

They build their nest in the hollows of trees, and generally just

such a height from the ground as left the head of a man on

horseback on a level with their domicile, thus bringing literally a

hornet's nest about his ears. Several of the party, as well the

horses, were this day stung. The horses and mules had no sooner

felt the violence of the sting than they commenced bucking, and

one or two of their riders were unseated. Even my old Number 8

tried this game, which somewhat surprised me, as, judging from

his generally quiet demeanour, I did not suppose, as Mr. Hely

remarked, he had a kick in him. Our course was west and south-

west.

January 26.—This morning we had to commence the ascent of the

ranges of the Robinson, which were, in many parts, steep and

precipitous; and, to avoid the chasms in the rocks, we were under

the necessity of tracing them up to their commencement. This

style of travelling, combined with the extreme heat of the sun,

rendered our day's stage a long and tedious one. In one of these

broken, rocky bites of land, we saw a clump of very large bottle

trees. They had all been stripped, in many parts, of the bark, and a

large quantity of the stem itself taken by the natives, very probably

for food—indeed, many of our party were in the habit of eating

the wood of this tree, which had very much the taste of a turnip.

This remarkable tree belongs to the natural order of

Jussien Stirculeaceæ, and has been determined as a new genera De

Labechia, in honor of a friend of Sir Thomas Mitchell's of that

name. Sir Thomas was the first to introduce a specimen of the

plant to England; and I believe I may take the credit of having sentthe first seeds, which I found at a camp from whence the wild

blacks bolted on our appearance. We only obtained, on that

occasion, twelve seeds. In the course of the day's stage, while

passing through a small patch of scrub, I saw and obtained seeds

of a magnificent crimson flowering species of Passiflora, the seed

pods were as large as pigeons' eggs and the flavor good; but as the

quantity obtained was limited, they were too valuable to be used

as an article of food. We camped in the afternoon on the bank of a

small but well-watered creek, a tributary of the Robinson. We

pitched our camp near a beautiful grove, composed of sweetly-

scented Myrtaceous plants, and a species of Tristanea; many of

the latter were as tall as the usual sized silver-leaf box gum.

Clinging to these trees was a species of Clematis, or Virginian

bower, having foliage different from any I had previously seen.

They were not in blossom. We soon discovered that our camping

ground was infested with ants of two or three kinds, whose bite

was very violent, and kept the party on the move the whole night.

Owing to the broken and mountainous character of the country,

this day our course was much broken and indirect.

January 27.—It was no very gratifying sight to look at the

apparently inaccessible chain of mountains, one tier peeping over

another, laying directly in our line of route, and which we knew

we must in consequence, pass over. We made an attempt, and left

our camp at 10 a.m.; and by dint of dodging round the large

boulders, and following up or down the fissures, or ravines, we

eventually succeeded in reaching the summit of the highest part of

the group. Here we had a fine view of the peaks of Expedition

Bange in the distance. This was a broken chain of mountains, over

which we should also have to march. On the top of the ranges

passed over to-day, saw some fine trees of Fusanus, and a new

arborescent species of Hakea, having leaves large and serrated at

the edges, like the native honeysuckle (Banksia Australis), Shortly

after descending the ranges, the country opened into fine rich flats,of no great extent, however, intersected by water-courses, but

many of them dried up. The trees were—the rusty gum, Tristanea,

Sterculea (Corrijong), and emu peach. The greater part of the

forenoon was showery, which made it bad travelling by the side of

the gulleys, so common on the ranges. We camped late in the

afternoon again on the river Robinson, where it assumes a very

singular character, being of extreme breadth, with a deep bed of

white sand, through which ran a chain of water-holes. Saw among

the grass on the flats a great many different kinds of Mantis, with

some large and gorgeously-marked butterflies. We followed, as

nearly as the nature of the country would allow, on the westerly

course. Latitude of our camp, 25 deg. 25 min.; elevation, 1,028

feet. I omitted to state the elevation of the head of the river

Dawson, which was 1,461 feet.

January 28, 1850[sic].—One of the horses having met with an

accident by staking his leg, occasioned us to remain at the camp

the whole of the day. The weather was cloudy, and so far pleasant,

as compared to the heat of the last few days. The grass and

herbage were literally covered with innumerable varieties of

the Mantis and locusts, presenting a fine field for the

entomologist. Obtained a new species of Aster, The doctor and

Wommai reconnoitered for our next day's camping place, and

found a suitable one at the distance of ten miles. I sowed some

more vegetable seeds on the banks of the river.

January 29.—Made an early start, and travelled a N.W. by N.

course over rocky ridges, and loose sandy confined plains, on

which were some fine trees of Metrosideros and Xylomelon, or, as

it is generally called, native pear; the large woody seed pods being

as large, and very like that fruit. Crossed a small creek twice,

containing but little water, and encamped upon a fine chain of

water-holes, at the head of the Robinson, among a group of the

beautiful, palm-like aborescent Zamias, many of them in full fruit.

This fruit is collected by the natives, soaked in water, pounded androasted after a fashion peculiar to themselves, and eaten. Wommai

dressed and eat some of it; but, I imagine from not properly

understanding the process of preparation, he was ill for some days

afterwards. Much of the soil passed over to-day was soft and

puffy, and the gulleys and intersections were of limestone

formation. On the puffy ground the dogwood (Jacksonia) and

Cypress pine (Callaetris) made its appearance again. The wood of

the Jacksonia, when burnt, gives out a disagreeable, fœtid smell,

from whence it has derived the name of stink-wood.

January 30.—The early part of this day's stage was of a breakneck

description, which by noon brought us clear of the ranges of the

Robinson. We entered, after the descent, a beautifully-confined

valley, richly grassed, and where water-holes were plentiful; on

one of these we camped about two p.m. Observing a remarkably

broken-looking, rocky hill, or boulder, at the distance of about a

mile and a half from our camp, Mr. Mann and myself wended our

steps thither; he to take a sketch of the country, and myself to look

for plants. On ascending this place, my companion had a

delightful field for his labors, as we had a full and uninterrupted

survey of the surrounding country in every direction. Mount Aldis

and Mount Nicholson were plainly to be discerned; and, on

casting our eyes in d north-westerly direction, we observed an

unbroken chain of apparently perpendicular rocks, forming a

double wall, the one peering over the other. Among the broken

crevices in the rocks, I found a pretty, shrubby species

of Phyllanthus, with an abundance of small, coral-like seeds, each

about the size of a pea, as also a large species of Asclepius, and a

great number of Rutaceous plants.

The weather being fine at the time of camping, we omitted to rig

up our tents: and as, in the night, we were visited by a heavy storm

of rain, we had the pleasure of being most completely saturated.

Our course was N.W. by N. Elevation, 1,648 feet.January 31.—Sunday.—Shortly after leaving the camp, we entered

a narrow and picturesque rocky valley, which gave us much

trouble to descend, the large stones following close upon our

horses' heels in our progress. After travelling in this manner for

the distance of five miles, we entered upon closely timbered

country, which continued until meeting an apparently inaccessible

bank of rocks. Here it was deemed desirable to camp, although it

was early in the day, to enable the doctor, accompanied by

Wommai, to take a reconnoisance. From the broken character of

the country, our course was very indirect: first, N.N.W., and

subsequently N.E. by N.

February 1.—The first part of the day's stage was through poor

scrubby country, much interrupted by gulleys, many of them

containing water. After passing through one of these gulleys, more

than usually deep, we came upon the edge of an immense

precipice, extending further than the eye could reach. On the

opposite side of this was another wall, equally precipitous.

Between these gigantic enclosures was a deep and, as it would

seem, fertile valley; and through the centre ran a fine water-

course. These gigantic natural walls, or boundaries, presented

appearances the most fantastic; occasionally your imagination

would picture a large castle, which again changed to some of the

old abbeys and nunneries, common in England and on the

Continent. In fact, every style of architure, [sic] as you continued

to gaze, was presented, from the old abbey in ruins, to the more

modern cottage ornée. With much difficulty we effected an

entrance to the valley below. We travelled for some distance along

the edge of the creek we had formerly seen, although we

frequently met with interruptions, until three p.m., when we

encamped on what the doctor named, from the romantic scenery

around, the Creek of Ruined Castles. On following up a glen amid

broken rocks, I found two new species of Acacia, with pendulent,

viscid, horse-tail like foliage, three Dodonea, one Notolea,two Hovea Boronia, and three of the Grevillia, one species very

handsome. Towards nightfall, it commenced raining heavily, and,

as the grass was long, made it unpleasant watching at night.

February 2.—Left the camp at half-past ten a.m., but were not able

to travel more than three miles, the horse with the sore fetlock

being knocked up. Just as we were unloading the mules, we

experienced a heavy thunder storm, which drenched us all to the

skin, and made it difficult to kindle a fire. As we followed up the

course of the creek, we found this remarkable valley to open out

on either 'side, the country still being confined and walled in. The

extent of the valley was sufficient for four large cattle stations at

least; and a few rods of fencing would have secured the whole

area, from which it would have been difficult for the cattle to have

strayed.

The timber was the emu peach, native pear, and silver-leaved box

gum. Mr. Hely was very unwell. Latitude, 26 deg. 11 sec;

elevation, 1,750.

February 3.—This morning was showery, and we remained at the

camp. Mr. Mann, Hely, and myself visited a rocky eminence, and

found another new species of prickly Mimosa, Dodonea, and the

rock Mitrosacme.

February 4.—The lame horse being unable to travel, we made

another start without him. We followed up this Ruined Castle

Creek to its source, among a series of elevated ranges, through

which we, with difficulty, succeeded in making our way. I found

the country interesting, botanically, and collected the following

plants, one remarkable shrub having a false corolla:—

Pittosporum, a new kind of vine, having fruit like the black cluster

grape, and pleasant eating: the slightly pungent Eustrephus,

the Cassia, and several berry-bearing shrubs. On descending the

ranges, we had to avoid deep gulleys, containing water in many

places. Camped at four p.m. on a small, sheltered creek, with

sandy and rocky bed. Our course was, as nearly as it was possibleto judge, N.W. by N. The creek on which we camped was called

Zamia Creek, there being many of these plants on its banks.

Elevation, 1,406.

February 5.—Continued following down Zamia Creek in a

northerly direction. Crossed and re-crossed several times in the

course of the day. The scenery was pretty, but in many parts very

scrubby. Collected a new Cassia and one Acacia, trees Bauhinia,

Cyprus pine, silver box, and three other species of the Eucalyptus,

The Zamia adorned the banks of the river in many places.

Thermometer at half past two p.m., in the shade, 93. Mr. Hely

suffered much from toothache, and had his gums lanced previous

to having one drawn. The operator was Dr. Leichhardt, and the

instrument a bullet-mould. I need not say that, after a sharp jerk

with this instrument, the tooth remained as firmly in the mouth as

ever, although the doctor happily, or, as poor Hely thought,

unhappily remarked, it broke or shook the nerve, which of itself

was likely to give him ease. Pitched our tents at a small water

hole, at 3 p.m., when Mr. Mann and myself ascended a hill, from

whence he took another sketch of the country, including our

camping grounds.

February 6.—We found this morning that one of our mules, Don

Pedro by name, and one who had crossed the Cordilleras, in South

America, on many occasions, had taken it into his head to wander

from the camp; and we consequently made a late start, and

continued following down Zamia Creek, whose many windings

gave us the same trouble in crossing and re-crossing as yesterday.

After travelling the distance of five miles, we again camped on its

banks; the weather was oppressively hot, and the flies

troublesome. We were, in the early part of the evening, visited

with another thunder storm.

February 7.—We made a long stage this day, following a north

north-easterly course; passed Mount Aldis on our left hand—

country scrubby in places.February 8.—From the time of starting this morning until camping

in the afternoon, we were travelling through swamps. Camped, at

three p.m., on the banks of Erythrina Creek;. course, N.E. by N.;

elevation, 914.

February 9.—This day we commenced the ascent of Expedition

Range. The country broken, and in many places boggy. Passed

thorough much scrub and closely timbered country. Saw many

interesting plants. Our course was N.N.W. We encamped, about

four p.m., on the bank of a small creek, where there were many

plants of the dwarf Zamia, with a tolerable show of pine-apple like

fruit.

February 10.—Continued travelling over the same range, and

effected a clear descent by five in the evening, when we encamped

on a finely-watered creek, the banks on either side being clothed

with a great variety of shrubs. Saw, on the tops of the range, a

large variety of the Acacias, obtained three (to me) new species, as

well as two Hoveas, one Glycine, two Hakea, three Boronia,

two Eriostemon, many new species of the genus Acacia, two of

which adorn the Botanical Gardens, Melbourne; among them one

with the stems compressed, after a very singular fashion, very like

the Anceps common near Sydney. Our course was westerly.

The doctor named the pretty creek on which we had camped

Expedition Creek, from taking its rise on the ranges bearing that

name.

February 11.—Our course was W.N.W. In the course of the day's

stage, crossed no less than four creeks, all running parallel with

each other, and taking their sources from Expedition Range. The

intervening country was boggy in the extreme, and the whole of

the mules became fixed in the mud up to the girths; and we were

under the necessity of taking off their loads to set them at liberty.This morning I was scarcely able to mount my horse, having a

violent attack of fever, which, in a few days subsequently, attacked

the whole of the party, more or less. As the weather looked bad,

and indicated a wet night,, we rigged up our two thin and almost

useless calico tents. This was done in respect to my illness;

indeed, my fever increased, and, to add to the misery of my

situation, shortly after dark, it commenced raining in torrents,

which soon swamped us out of our tents.

In consideration of my sufferings, Mr. Hely, my companion

(allotted by Dr. Leichhardt), kindly undertook my share of

watching the cattle for the night.

February 12.—The rain continued the whole of the night, and

made the ground, which was naturally loose and puffy, in such a

muddy and boggy condition, as to render it quite impossible for

the mules, with their small feet and heavy loads, to travel; and we

were necessitated to remain at the camp the whole of the day.

Three or four of the party, in addition to myself, complained of

being unwell. Wommai, one of the black fellows, was positively

ill.

February 13.—We this day entered a dense Brigalowe scrub,

through the centre of which ran the Comet River, so named by Dr.

Leichhardt from the fact of the comet having made its first

appearance while he was travelling along its banks on his former

expedition, and from whence we did not clearly emerge until after

the lapse of many days. During the whole time it was a

continuance of wet weather, and travelling was wretched;

sometimes passing through a sheet of muddy water for the

distance of a quarter of a mile, into which we had frequently to

dismount to relieve the horses, who constantly got bogged.

Sometimes the back water would nearly surround our camping

ground, which was a place we had generally some difficulty in

selecting, a little above the level of the inundated country around.

On this mud we had every night to make our couch, which wassimply a few handfuls of boughs broken off the Brigalowe trees.

Our only covering for many consecutive nights was the half of a

wet blanket; and this, from the frequency of showers, and the

dank; unwholesome, confined atmosphere of the Brigalowe scrub,

we had not often an opportunity of drying. Watching the stock at

night, the greater part of the time up to our knees in mud, was

eventually sufficient to lead to a general sickness. Such was the

opinion entertained at the time, and such was, in a few days, the

result. We followed, as nearly as the scrub would admit, a north-

westerly course; the only relief to the sombre Brigalowe scrub

being a few trees of the Bauhinia and silver-leaved box gum.

February 14.—This was, perhaps, one of the best day's specimens

we had of expeditionising. The country, for the greater part of the

day's stage, was through muddy and boggy water-holes, up to the

horses' girths. They were so frequently bogged, that we preferred

walking the greater part of the morning. Course again pretty

nearly N.W.

February 16.—Still roaming through the scrub—the ground a little

more firm than formerly, and the travelling far better. We had,

however, one large sheet of water to travel through, of at least half

a mile in extent. It was very difficult for me and Wommai to

follow in the tracks of the party ahead, through this scrub, we

being generally a considerable distance behind, with the sheep and

goats—our only guide being the ripples where the water had been

disturbed. About noon this day, I was nearly drowned in crossing a

sheet of water, the horse, poor old Number 8, having been bogged;

and, owing to my late suffering from fever and ague, I was unable,

until assisted by Wommai, who was in truth nearly as ill as myself,

to extricate my feet from the stirrup-irons. With much difficulty,

however, we managed to get clear of the water; but we were both

so completely exhausted that we were compelled to lie down, and

the sheep and goats were allowed to wander among the scrub at

their leisure. About five p.m., the doctor, on account of our notappearing at the camp, became apprehensive that something had

occurred, and despatched Bucking, with the black fellow. Brown,

as his guide, to look for us; and they found us in the helpless

condition already mentioned. On reaching the camp (a bed of soft

mud, over which had been spread a few Brigalowe boughs). Dr.

Leichhardt was at last convinced that I was really and truly very

ill; and expressed some little sympathy, by having boiled for me

and poor Wommai a little gelatine soup. I only managed to

swallow a few spoonsfull. Small as the quantity was, it was the

first food of any kind I had eaten for several days. In the course of

the night, much and heavy rain fell, and I was lying half-covered

with water during the whole of the time; but of this fact I was not

aware until the following morning. As the crisis of my disease

took place during the night, I was unconscious of all and

everything around me. I was told that I was very kindly attended

by the doctor and Mr. Perry during the night. The doctor

afterwards remarked that I had forcibly verified the old proverb of,

"The ruling passion strong in death," as the only remark made by

me during the night was, "Mr. Perry, take care of my specimens."

Elevation, 1,048 feet.

February 17.—Shortly after leaving the camp this morning, the

country began to open a little, but still continued scrubby. Saw a

very fine species of Datura, or Stramomium, with large white,

trumpet like blossoms. The doctor having made a long stage to-

day, we continued travelling with the sheep and goats, which were

knocked up, until nearly dark; and we were just on the eve of

camping by ourselves as Wommai sighted the smoke of the camp

fire, when we pushed on to the party, the doctor sending Turnbull

and Brown to fetch the sheep and goats. Course, W.N.W.

February 18.—Before the middle of the day We had the pleasure

of finding ourselves clear of the scrub, and travelled over open

flats of considerable extent; the soil being puffy, and very wet,

made it harassing travelling for the loaded mules. We camped onwhat Dr. Leichhardt called Deception Creek, where the sandflies

and musquitoes were numerous and extremely troublesome.

Collected in the course of the day's stage specimens and seeds

of Trichodesma, Lasiopetalon—a new Stenochilus, with

beautifully-pendulant fuschia-like blossoms; and, among the

silver-leafed box gum trees which adorned the banks of the creek,

I found a handsome species of Hibiscus, with large, rose-colored

blossoms; with several Leguminous plants having pink blossoms.

Latitude, 24 deg. 27 min.; course, W.N.W.

February 19.—From the scarcity of grass, and the labor

necessarily undergone in getting the stock through

the Brigalowe scrub for the last few days, the doctor determined

upon remaining a day at this place.

February 20.—We this day reached the Comet River, or, I should

rather say, we were, for the first time, enabled to approach and

camp on its banks, as the river, in fact, ran through the scrub from

whence we had just, with so much difficulty, emerged, and where

we had once or twice caught sight of it. The musquitoes continued

to be. troublesome at night, and prevented the party from

obtaining their usual allowance of sleep.

February 21.—This day the sandflies were so excessively

troublesome as to render it necessary to ivrap our hands and faces

in our pocket-handkerchiefs; so annoying did they become, about

noon, as to cause the mules to buck and unship their loads.

Unfortunately I overtook the party at this juncture, and was, of

course, called upon to assist the others in the operation of holding

and reloading them. This work could not be done, however, until a

number of small fires were ignited, in the centre of which the

mules were led while being loaded, as the smoke arising from the

fires drove away the insects, and the mules were, of course, quiet.

This work of loading was a severe trial to our tempers; and even

Mr. Perry, the most religious young man of the party, was, onseveral occasions, in the act of swearing a few oaths, but caught

himself in the middle of each oath, and sought forgiveness for his

half-committed offence; thus clearing his way and his conscience

at the same time. We crossed and recrossed the Comet River twice

before camping. The country was scrubby until noon, when we

made some fine open plains; these were called Sandfly Downs, in

commemoration of the trouble we had experienced in that locality

from sandflies. Among the patches of scrub in the vicinity of the

river, we saw, for the first time for many days, several black

fellows gunyas. The timber on the plains was principally box gum.

Course, north-west and westerly.

February 22.—Brown returned late this forenoon, with only a few

of the horses and mules, the others having strayed; and we were

compelled to remain all day in the camp. Saw, on the banks of the

river, some fine trees, of the beautiful aborescent Cassia; but,

unfortunately, they were neither in blossom nor in seed. Elevation,

920 feet.

February 23.—This was a day of accidents: two of the mules were

nearly drowned; what little sugar and flour we yet possessed got

saturated; and we lost our spade, as well as a portfolio, containing

a few of the most interesting insects which had been collected on

the expedition. Our course was north-easterly, through scrub,

along the bank of the river. On arriving at the camp. Bucking and

Brown were despatched for the lost spade, with a promise of a

reward of a two-pound flat cake, if they were successful in their

search. They returned in about an hour and a half with the spade,

and received their cake, which they generously divided with their

companions. Latitude, 24 deg. 10 min. south.

February 24.—Course N. by W., still following the course of the

Comet River, which continues to be scrubby, and of the same

character as yesterday.February 25.—Course the same as yesterday, following the course

of the river. About noon we came suddenly upon a number of

blacks, who appeared to be much frightened, as they held up their

hands, screamed, and ran away as fast as their legs could carry

them. Found among the patches of scrub a very large and beautiful

shrubby species of Abutylon in full blossom, yellow, and, when

expanded, as large as a rose. Towards evening we were driven by

the scrub to the distance of two or three miles from the river,

where we camped on a large creek or backwater of the river itself.

We had scarcely been camped two hours, when it commenced

raining in torrents, and continued pouring down the whole of the

night. The soil being black and tenacious, it clung to our boots in

large flakes or clods, and made it difficult in walking round and

watching the cattle during the night.

February 26.—It still continued raining; but from the trampling of

the cattle during the night, the place was so muddy as to render it

necessary to "up sticks!" and start for another, and, as we hoped, a

better and firmer camping ground. We travelled for about three

miles, when we came to a wide sheet of water, where, as it

continued to rain, we again encamped. We had not remained long,

however, before this place, like the one we had left, from the

trampling of the cattle, was soon a bed of mud.

We were all completely soaked, and were for a long time trying

before we could succeed in lighting a fire to warm ourselves.

Fortunately, about noon, it began to clear up, end we were enabled

to dry our clothes and blankets. It kept tolerably fine until

midnight, which was the time for me and my companion, Mr.

Hely, to commence our watch, when it again came down thick and

fast, and continued in that manner for the remainder of the night.

We were still encamped in a scrub composed of Brigalowe,

Dodonea, and Stenochilus, with a few scattered box trees. We

heard some black fellows cooeing, in the night, during our watch.February 27.—We were again compelled to remain at the camp,

the continued rains during the night having rendered the country

too muddy for travelling. The dogs gave chase to a brush

kangaroo; but did not succeed in catching it.

February 28.—Sunday.—This morning I was early astir with

Wommai, having been disturbed by the repeated and continual

bleating of a young calf, proceeding apparently from the confines

of a thick patch of scrub at a little distance from the camp. After a

diligent search we found in the midst of the aforesaid scrub a

young calf which had been deserted by its mother. We had not the

slightest idea that our only cow was so hear giving us an addition

to our stock. It was, however, a gratifying fact, as we were in

hopes that we should from this circumstance be furnished for

some little time to come with a supply of milk; but on this matter

we were egregiously mistaken, inasmuch as we could not succeed

in erecting a bail sufficiently strong to hold her during the

operation of milking.

From the time lost in the attempt at milking the cow and in fixing

the calf on one of the mules, it being unable to travel, we did not

succeed in leaving the camp until near midday. We had not

travelled for more than a mile when the calf commenced crying

for its mother; this so alarmed the mule, on the back of which it

was placed, that it became frightened and commenced bucking;

this practice was followed by its companions, and in a short time

we had the trouble of catching and reloading the whole of them.

The doctor was determined that the mule should carry its live

burden, and this time he (it was a bull calf) fastened it under the

tarpaulin, a slit being cut, through which it could put out its head

and breathe. Another start was made, and we had travelled this

time for not more than three quarters of a mile when the calf again

commenced crying, and the mule to buck as before; the same

trouble in catching would have been necessary, but after some

persuasion the doctor agreed to camp at the place as we happenedto be, on the bank of the Comet River, which, from the late rains,

we found to be much flooded.

March 1.—This day we had heavy travelling through patches of

scrub, composed principally of Brigalowe and Dodonea. Had also

to cross many backwaters of the Comet River. We travelled about

eight miles, when we camped on the bank of the river, which was

evidently rising. On unpacking our traps, we found that we had

lost a small bag of sugar, one of tea, and one of salt. Bucking and

Brown were again despatched for them, with a promise of being

allowed to retain the sugar, and to which the doctor was to add

some tapioca for a pudding on our reaching the Mackenzie River,

if they were fortunate in their search. We were in expectation of

reaching this river the day after to-morrow. Saw in the patches of

scrub some fine trees of the Santalum (bastard sandal wood), and a

new leguminous plant, from which I obtained both seeds and

specimens.

March 2.—This morning we had to use all imaginary despatch to

load our mules, as the river was rising rapidly, and the back

current of water was surrounding our camping ground. Some of

our cattle were missing, and Brown was despatched for them. Mr.

Hely and Turnbull were ordered to remain until his return to the

camp. This day the doctor made a very long stage, and Wommai

and myself, with the goats and sheep, and the party with the cattle,

had much difficulty in making the camp; indeed hut for the report

of firearms, we should for the night have formed three separate

parties, although we knew by tracks in the mud, and the repeated

cooeing, that a number of wild blacks were at no great distance.

We travelled until late, owing to the crooked course which the

scrubs and backwaters rendered it necessary for us to adopt,

although we did not make more than nine miles in distance, our

average course being E. I did not observe an inch of ground on the

Comet River that could by any possibility be turned to any

account, although I think it probable that plains of some extentmay exist a few miles back. Brown reported that while looking for

the cattle he observed the tracks of black fellows who had been

following his and the course of our tracks yesterday, and very

probably they had found our bag of sugar, &c., as Brown and

Bucking returned without them. Mr. Perry was this evening taken

suddenly ill. We camped on the bank of the Comet. Latitude 23

deg. 41 min.

March 3.—Mr. Perry much worse, and we remained all day in

camp.

March 4.—To-day the whole of the horses could not be found

until late in the afternoon, when we made a start for a place

indicated by Brown as being clear of scrub, dry, and not more than

a mile distant. We travelled, however, a distance of three miles,

when we again camped on the banks of the Comet.

March 5.—We made the Mackenzie River at mid-day, and camped

on a fine patch of open country, but not far distant from a thick

patch of scrub. The river was much flooded, and there was every

prospect of our remaining for at least a fortnight. This evening Mr.

Turnbull was attacked with fever. The doctor also complained. Mr.

Perry much worse. Mr. Hely had the toothache. The doctor

recommended bathing.

March 6.—The weather being oppressively hot, and as the

invalids, more particularly Mr. Perry and Mr. Turnbull, continued

ill, we erected, with much labor, (owing to our weak state of

health,) a sort of arbour or bower, to shelter them from the sun.

The cow would not take the slightest notice of the young calf, and

to prevent its dying of starvation, Mr. Hely killed it. It was

afterwards cooked, and made into a kind of jelly. The doctor

commenced a new arrangement, and allowed us to have two meals

a day, and our three ounces of fat cake for luncheon;

unfortunately, many of the party were too ill to eat, and had butlittle appetite, and consequently the worthy leader's very humane

system commenced, like many other good intentions in this world,

too late to benefit the greater part of his companions.

March 7.—Sunday.—This morning, the doctor, Mr. Hely, and

Brown, the black fellow, were added to the list of invalids. The

others worse, and myself again very unwell. We were situated

within four miles of the tropics, and the weather consequently

very hot. Latitude, 23 deg., 34 min. To add to the misery of our

situation, the musquitoes and sandflies were beyond measure

troublesome, and prevented the poor fellows who were suffering

from the fever getting anything in the shape of wholesome

slumber, which was so necessary to them under the circumstances.

The duties of watching the cattle at night, and attending upon the

others, devolved upon myself and three others, two of whom were

barely able to crawl about. In the evening, Mr. Mann, who had, up

to this time, retained his health better than the others, complained

of feeling some symptoms of the fever.

March 8.—The doctor and the other invalids better. Turnbull and

Perry were, however, but a little better. The river going down

rapidly. I attributed our sickness, in a great measure, to our so long

travelling down the Comet River, which, as the waters receded

from the back waters, as the river continued to fall, left a mass of

vegetable matter, which, becoming putrid, a very unpleasant

effluvium arose, and may have had some effect on the

constitutions of the party who had already suffered so much from

the bad weather and wet blankets. In such situations as the above,

I observed always a greater number of musquitoes and sandflies.

The black fellows, however, attributed it to our drinking the water

in such places. Unfortunately, Dr. Leichhardt, acting upon the fact

of having escaped sickness in his Port Essington tour, omitted to

bring the necessary quantity of medicines, and we were

completely helpless. Some of the party had fortunately brought a

few papers of rhubarb, calomel, &c., which, with one small bottleof quinine supplied by the doctor himself, was all the medicines

we had. This omission led to much grumbling on the part of the

invalids. The only thing we possessed, as being palatable to the

poor fellows, was tapioca and gelatine; but, as he would allow no

sugar with the tapioca, their stomachs were too weak to take it.

Shortly after sundown, the sky became overcast, and every

appearance of a tropical storm; nor were we deceived in its aspect,

as it commenced raining hard, accompanied by heavy thunder and

very vivid flashes of lightning. Our tents being useless, no attempt

was made—indeed, we had not strength or time to get the

necessary forks and poles for erecting them, and the sick had to

bear the storm with all its force. The doctor, in the evening, gave

us all a dose of calomel and scammony, which, he said, he trusted

would allay the effects of the fever.

March 9.—Mr. Mann, myself, and Wommai were the only persons

in the party who were able to crawl about. In the morning, it was

discovered that one of the goats had kidded during the night; and

we took advantage of the circumstance to furnish the sick with a

little milk. It was no trifling job, sick and weak as we were, to

catch the brute. Having succeeded, Wommai managed to extract a

quart of milk. To prevent a recurrence of the party suffering from

the effect of another thunder-storm, we managed to erect the two

tents, previously sewing up the parts that were torn. The invalids'

regimen now was gelatine, boiled with a little tapioca, seasoned

with pepper and salt. Mr. Boecking was seized with a violent rash,

which broke out all over his body, occasioned, the doctor thought,

from his drinkly too freely of cold water. Mr. Mann and Wommai

were the only sound persons in the party. From the number of

sandflies by day, and musquitoes at night, the situation of the

invalids was truly pitiable. In the middle of the night, during my

watch, I heard a strange noise, very like the howling of a native

dog, and, on looking round, I was surprised to find Wommai by

my side greatly alarmed. He had been awoke by the same noise,which, he said, was a kind of signal used among the natives when

they were bent on any mischievous undertaking. On walking in

the direction of the river from whence the noise proceeded, we

distinctly heard them talking in a low hut hurried manner. I went

and informed the doctor of this fact, who awoke Mann and

Boecking, the others being unable to keep their feet. We loaded

our pieces, and made a breastwork, or defence, with the pack-

saddles and stores, behind which we kept watch for some time;

everything, however, continued quiet, and morning appeared

without bringing the threatened danger. Probably the noise of

ourselves and goats may have alarmed them. Elevation, 787 feet.

March 10.—The greater part of the invalids were much better this

morning. The weather was overcast and cloudy, with every

appearance of rain. Should it again fall in any quantity, it will

cause the Mackenzie River to rise, and prevent our crossing for

some time to come.

March 11.—Our situation to-day was truly painful; the invalids,

who were better yesterday, having relapsed, and Mr. Boecking and

Wommai, the black fellow, were added to the list. There were,

consequently, only two of us able to go about and attend upon the

others—namely, Mr. Mann and myself. The doctor suffered from

the fever and ague, and lowness of spirits. I believe the latter

feeling arose from his having brought no medicine, and seeing the

helpless condition of the party—surrounded as we were by wild

black fellows, who, although not visible, we knew, from their

tracks, and occasionally overhearing them, that they were not far

distant. The whole of the watching at night consequently devolved

on Mr. Mann and myself. During my watch this night, the dogs

were very uneasy, barking and running in the direction of a patch

of scrub, at a short distance from the camp, sufficient to afford

shelter to a whole tribe of blacks; and, being within spear-shot of

our camp, we were completely at their mercy, had they been

inclined to attack us. We, however, had taken the precaution ofhaving very small fires, covered with cow dung to hide the blaze,

while the smoke drove away the mosquitoes, greatly to the relief

of the invalids. Mr. Hely had recovered wonderfully; and it was

arranged that, in the event of our being able to cross the river

(which had fallen considerably the last day or two), to catch and

load the mules, cross, and camp above the junction of the Comet

River with the Mackenzie, where there was no flood, as the whole

of the water came from the Comet. Our black fellows assured us

that we might attribute our sickness to the miasma, arising from

the decayed vegetable matter left or deposited in the gullies from

whence the floods had receded, and to drinking the water in such

localities. They consequently highly applauded the intention of

Mr. Mann, Mr. Hely, and myself, as to our removal to above

where the river was flooded.

Until removing, at the suggestion of the blacks, we used the water

from a small water-hole in the scrub, in preference to the river

water, although it was rather muddy. The doctor allowed the party

to have a three-ounce allowance of damper, made into toast and

water, and highly relished by the invalids. It was fortunate for us

that our cattle, mules, and horses were tolerably tame, and went

out to feed and return of themselves without herding; for this,

however, we were indebted to the sandflies and musquitoes, which

generally attacked the cattle about ten or eleven o'clock in the

forenoon, when they immediately rushed home to the camp, where

we had several small fires lighted to keep the insects off. The fish

in this river must livery large and numerous, judging by the noise

caused by their leaping up above the surface during the night, and

may, perhaps, be the occasion of its being so much resorted to by

the blacks. To add to our distress, we were again visited by

another violent tropical shower, and, so sudden was its approach,

that we had not time to remove the invalids to the tents before it

commenced; fortunately, however, it was not of long continuance,

but sufficient to prevent the sick from removing from their tents

during the whole night, where they were nearly driven mad by themosquitoes, as there was no possibility of lighting a fire and

causing a smoke in the tent.

March 12.—Mr. Hely had a relapse to-day, which put an end to

the possibility of crossing and removing higher up the river. In the

night. Dr. Leichhardt was very ill, and complained much. Wommai

also had a relapse, so that Mann and myself were the only parties

to keep watch and attend to the other duties.

March 13.—No visible improvement in the party, except Perry,

who ate a whole quart of skillygalee, which he managed to retain

in his stomach for the first time for many days; and I was rejoiced

at the circumstance.

Boecking, Hely, and Wommai took each an emetic. We were very

uneasy this day, at finding that the cattle, horses, and mules did

not return to the camp at the usual time. Both the blacks being ill,

the duty of looking for them, of course, devolved on Mr. Mann or

myself; and, as he was stronger than I, he kindly undertook the

job, and started in the afternoon, and returned in the evening with

the intelligence of having tracked them to a dense scrub, when he

returned to the encampment. Our scrub water-hole becoming too

thick and muddy, we were compelled again to have recourse to the

river.

March 14.—Sunday.—This morning was ushered in by fine

cooling and refreshing breezes from the southward; and, in

consequence, Dr. Leichhardt, Perry, Turnbull and Boecking felt a

little better. Wommai also felt the effects of the cool breezes, and,

although very ill, kindly undertook to ride and look for the cattle.

We killed another sheep, although Mr. Mann and I were the only

consumers. The doctor felt much better in the evening. Wommai

returned about four p.m. with the whole of the cattle.

Three other goats had kids. We had, however, much trouble in

catching the rascals to milk them. Wommai succeeded, at length,

with the lasso, which he had learned to throw from the Spaniards,

at his native place. Port Stephens.It was not a little amusing to witness the various wants and wishes

of the different invalids. Poor Perry wished me this morning to

furnish him with a pinch of snuff. Mr. Boecking, who was

suffering more from the fever and ague than any of his

companions, would persist in eating his share of damper,

immediately it was cooked, in preference to having it afterwards

toasted, and made into toast and water. The only excuse to be

offered for him was, that he invariably took his meals kindly under

any circumstances. Mr. Turnbull's weakness was, a determination

to eat the sop from the toast and water. I would not allow him to

do so. The cattle came in of their own accord this morning about

eleven a.m. Mr. Perry wished for a piece of grilled goat's flesh,

which I cooked and gave to him. At the present time we had

scarcely a mule or a horse in hobbles, they having broken them,

from our inability to attend to such matters; and I desired to see

Mr. Perry sufficiently recovered to attend to his duties. Dr.

Leichhardt also took a small portion of grilled goat's flesh for his

breakfast. It struck me that under the present circumstances a tonic

would be advantageous to the invalids, and with this view I sowed

early this morning some vegetable seeds.

Two more goats kided, making altogether five milkers. On retiring

to my blanket at night, I found a snake coiled between its folds.

Fortunately there was sufficient light from the Are to enable me to

observe it; indeed, I am generally cautious in examining my

blankets when I go to rest at a late hour. I was of course anxious to

dispose of so dangerous a bedfellow as quickly as possible, and

was in the act of shaking or kicking him into the Are, but Dr.

Leichhardt (who occupied the opposite side) insisted on my not

killing it, as it might prove a new species. I remarked, that if he

wished the gentleman secured it was highly necessary for him to

assist; he readily responded, and seized our boiler, which he held

on its side until I with much difficulty managed to put the snake

into the mouth, when the doctor immediately placed on the lid,

where we left him regularly potted until daylight in the morning,when we discovered that it was one of the common brown kinds,

and as the boiler was required to boil the water for tea, the snake

was ejected, and the pot full of water placed on the fire. This little

incident shews how little fastidious are bushmen when engaged in

these expeditions.

March 16.—From the heat of yesterday, the invalids appeared not

to present any signs of improvement. The mustard and cress seed

sown yesterday morning made its appearance to-day above

ground. Early this morning a large congregation of crows came

and settled near the camp, and continued for the whole day.

March 17.—The invalids were better this morning, except Mr.

Boecking, and his remaining worse was on account of his

humouring his voracious appetite. The doctor issued an order

yesterday that he in particular should be allowed to eat nothing of

a heavy nature. In despite, however, of this order, he went to Mr.

Mann, the storekeeper, for enough flour to make himself a cake.

Mr. Mann, however, refused to give him flour for any other

purpose than for making skillagalee. Boecking took some flour on

these conditions, but instead of converting the same into skilly, he

made himself a half-cooked heavy cake. Fortunately the doctor

observed the "dodge" before he had eaten it, and took it away

from him. On being denuded of his cake, the poor fellow gave

such a melancholy look as could only have been equalled by

Adam when expelled from the gates of Paradise. So deeply did he

appear to feel his loss, that, although I knew him to be wrong, I

could not do less than pity a man who appeared to be fated to

carry with him so destructive an appetite. The history of the cake

was not allowed to stop here. One of the others, who was not so

sick as Boecking, took it and fried it in the pan in fat with the view

of eating it. In this matter, however, he was as much mistaken as

was poor Boecking when Leichhardt deprived him of it; for while

the cake was swimming and phizzing away in the pan, and while

the party occupied in its cooking turned, for a moment only, hisback from his occupation, Boecking whipped his hand into the

pan, walked off with and after all enjoyed the pleasure of eating

the cake of his own making. In consequence of this transaction the

doctor issued an order that none of the invalids should be allowed

to have flour diet in any way for the next three days. A two pound

damper had been cooked before the leader had issued the order,

which consequently fell to the lot of Mr. Mann and myself, as

being the only parties able to get about. The sight of so much

bread falling to us nearly proved fatal to poor Boecking. We had

now thirteen or fourteen goats in milk, and we found it a great

improvement to our tea. The doctor was much better, but Mann

and myself were the only two capable of keeping watch.

March 18.—"Many happy returns of the day to you," were the

salutations I received on rising from my blanket this morning, on

which I commenced my thirty-fourth year of a crooked and

somewhat eventful life. The morning was dull and cloudy, and

being surrounded by so many invalids, whose spirits partook in a

great measure of the melancholy character of the weather, their

salutations were received by me in a very different manner than

when uttered in the midst of social life, and under other than the

present circumstances.

March 19.—From sundown last evening until sunrise this morning

the weather was cool and agreeable, and the invalids obtained a

little wholesome repose, the effect of which was agreeably

perceptible this morning, as they arose with better spirits. Dr.

Leichhardt, availing himself of this improvement, had a horse

saddled, on which we lifted the worst of the invalids, who took a

little exercise in that manner, alternately. Brown (the blackfellow),

considerably better, rode out with the doctor, and shortly returned

with the whole of the cattle. This was a great relief to our minds,

the cattle being our main stay. Mr. Hely suffered much from

constipation and had no relief for nine days, nor had Boecking foreight. I attribute this in a great measure to our being destitute of

the necessary medicines.

March 20.—Not the slightest improvement in any of the party;

and to add to our misery, we found that the only palatable article

we had was turned sour, namely our flour, and the doctor issued an

order that none of the invalids should be allowed to eat any. Of

course this order did not affect Mr. Mann or myself, as we

continued the only two convalescents. Poor Turnbull begged hard

for a portion of my three ounce cake, and I gave him a small grain,

not much larger than a penny piece, with which he appeared much

pleased.

March 21.—No improvement in the invalids. No medicines of any

kind, save calomel and quinine; the only stimulants being fat

mutton, goats' flesh, and sour flour. If they recover, they will have

reason to thank the Almighty for the possession of good

constitutions, and a more than usual share of human patience and

endurance. This continued sickness has driven many of them to

their bibles and prayer-books, a practice that I trust they may

continue.

The doctor gave the party a feed of skillygalee, made of flour,

which had been previously roasted in a pan with the view to

remove the acidity.

This delicacy was enjoyed by the whole of the party, invalids and

otherwise. He also promised us a similar treat on the following

day.

March 22.—Much disappointment was expressed this day by the

party from Dr. Leichhardt having broken faith with them as

regarded the feed of skillygalee similar to that of yesterday.

Wommai was much better; this was fortunate, one black fellow

being worth two, or I may say half-a-dozen white men, from their

sagacity, and capacity in tracking and finding cattle, and general

knowledge of locality.March 23.—The invalids were a little better this morning. I went

down the banks of the Mackenzie river with a tin plate, and knife,

to cut a dish of the mustard and cress which I had sown, and

which I promised them as being ready for use this day. On

arriving, however, at the spot, judge of my surprise and disgust at

finding that the whole of it had been cut, and that too by some one

wearing European boots. Now, I knew that we were surrounded by

wild blackfellows, who might have cut it, although it was not

probable, but when I considered that they were not in the habit of

making or wearing boots, my suspicion rested on three persons

only, namely. Dr. Leichhardt, Mr. Mann, or myself, the others

being too ill to get about. Of course I was in a position to account

for my own innocence in the matter, and as I had an equally good

opinion of Mr. Mann, I was compelled to appeal to Dr. Leichhardt

for a solution of the mystery, who at once admitted that he had cut

and eaten it. This admission on the part of the doctor was a sore

disappointment to the poor helpless invalids, who were unable to

eat anything as substantial as meat, And had been led by me for

the last few days to expect on this particular day a dish of this

salad. Dr. Leichhardt observed, that there would be more fit for

cutting in two or three days, and if the invalids liked to cut it

themselves they might have it, but not otherwise. This was

tantamount to saying that they should not have it, as they were not

capable of moving twenty yards from their blankets without

assistance.

March 24.—Last evening, Mr. Mann, for the first time exhibited

symptoms of fever and ague, and took an emetic. We commenced

early this morning to make a kind of pen of boughs for the

purpose of swimming the sheep and goats to the opposite side of

the river. Mr. Mann (who was by profession a Civil Engineer and

Surveyor) was architect on the present occasion, but was, shortly

after commencing his labors, attacked by the fever and ague, and

compelled to take to his blanket. I was consequently the only oneto keep watch from dark until midnight; this I considered to be

necessary, owing to the patch of scrub which left us at all times

open to an attack from the natives. The evenings, about eleven

p.m., began to get cool and pleasant, and from midnight to sunrise

positively cold. The sheep pen on the bank of the river was

finished this evening by Dr. Leichhardt, Boecking, and myself. A

sheep's head was skinned, cleaned with much trouble, and boiled.

Each of the poor unfortunate invalids was, in imagination,

apportioning to himself a part. One was going to secure a piece of

the cheek—another a little of the brain—another a small portion of

the tongue. The whole matter was, however, very shortly set at

rest, greatly to the disappointment of their prematurely formed

expectations, by the following accident:—Mr. Boecking, who had,

as cook, the management of the boiler, turned bis back for a short

time, and by the sudden falling-in of a log, the pot was capsized,

and the broth, for which many of their numbers had been waiting,

was spilled and lost. Dr. Leichhardt very coolly picked up the

sheep's "jemmy" from the sand» and placed the same on his plate;

and, deaf to the remonstrances of the patients, very quickly and

quietly swallowed the whole, bones excepted. None of the horses

returned to the camp to-day; and, as we had neglected to retain

one on the tether last evening for riding, much anxiety was

manifested on that account.

March 25.—Wommai was this morning despatched for the

missing horses, and Brown was compelled to accompany him in

the search, although the poor fellow was afraid it would either kill

or make him worse than ever. A few of the sick having passed the

crisis of their disorder, had an appetite, and complained bitterly at

the thinness of the skilly and tapioca.

The moment they had an appetite to eat, the allowance was

shortened. With the exception of Mr. Mann, they were all a little

better, which was, considering their treatment, a miracle. As we

intended crossing the river shortly, if the party were well enough, Idug a hole at the butt of a large gum tree, on which Dr. Leichhardt

marked the word "dig". Here, as it was a problem if we should

ever reach this side of the river again, we buried a powder

cannister, containing a letter from Leichhardt, representing the

miserable and helpless condition of the party; one from myself,

addressed to the Melbourne Argus, and one or two from the party.

As Dr. Leichhardt has taken the same route in his present

expedition, should a party be organised to ascertain his fate, it

would be as well for them to note the present remark. The tree is

very large and isolated, at an angle of the Mackenzie River,

formed by the junction of the Comet; at the hack is a dense patch

of scrub, at a distance of probably one hundred yards.

March 26.—We this morning made an attempt at crossing the

sheep and goats; hut I first buried the powder cannister, as

mentioned yesterday. After placing it in the hole, I strewed a

quantity of charcoal all around the cannister as a preservative. The

doctor, Wommai, myself, and Boecking were the only parties able

to assist in the work; poor Boecking was knocked up, however, in

half an hour. The heat of the sun, before getting the whole of them

across, was intense, and Wommai was nearly knocked up.

March 27.—This morning Dr. Leichhardt issued orders for all the

people to rise and be in readiness for crossing the river, as he

strongly recommended exercise and violent exertion under a

tropical sun, as a substitute for medicine. I had scarcely crossed

and re-crossed the river, leading the pack mules a second time,

when I had a relapse, and was once more as helpless as some of

the others.

March 28.—In consequence of the exertions of yesterday, the

whole of the party were much worse, myself nearly dead. We had

not as yet had time or strength to erect a bower of any kind to

shelter us from the heat of the sun, which had thrown us into a

violent fever. The only sound persons now were Dr. Leichhardtand Wommai. Altogether, our situation was at this moment truly

alarming—worse than on any former occasion.

March 29.—Towards daylight we were visited with a heavy fall of

rain, soaking the whole of the party excepting the doctor. He,

being well, had rigged up and occupied one of the calico tents. A

cat fish was caught and cooked, and we all ate a small piece. From

the heavy rains of this morning, the whole of the party, as the

night closed in, were worse than ever, and, from their continued

sickness, began to lose all heart and confidence, fancying they

would never recover.

March 30.—Was ushered in with another fall of rain. It was really

heartrending to see the debilitated position of our little party,

principally, I am sure, from the absence of medicines, seven out of

nine not being able to stand on their legs for fifty seconds together,

and reeling like drunken men. We had every reason to believe that

our sheep were lost. As the evening threatened rain (and from my

extreme sickness), I was invited by the doctor to occupy a part or

his tent. Dr. Leichhardt and Wommai took a ride, and fortunately

returned with the whole of the cattle.

On the day preceding that on which we crossed the river, there

was some more mustard and cress fit for cutting, and of which I,

on this occasion, took care that they partook.

March 31.—The weather continued to he oppressively hot, and the

situation of the invalids was rendered more unbearable from their

inability to erect a bower to shelter them from the heat of the sun.

I regret to remark that many of the party, from various

circumstances, expressed a desire to return, and indeed made an

application to the doctor to that effect, requesting that he would

allow them to do so under the conduct and guidance of Brown,

one of the blackfellows, who was as anxious for this step as any of

the others. In this matter of trusting themselves to the guidance of

Brown, they were acting, in my opinion, with very poor judgment,

as a blackfellow in a new country is one of the most helpless andstupid companions imaginable. Ill as I was, I strongly objected to

returning, after having progressed so long a distance on the

expedition.

April 2.—Continued grumbling at being debarred the use of sugar.

April 3 and 4.—It never rains, they say, but it pours. On the first of

these days Dr. Leichhardt gave the party a quantity of dough-boys,

or, as we called them, dips, and on the following day a suet

pudding.

April 5.—Whether arising from the quantity of dough taken for

the last two days, in the shape of dough-boys and suet pudding, or

from the heat of the weather, I know not, but they were much

worse this morning, and in consequence the doctor very wisely

came to the determination of taking the worst of the invalids a few

days' stages towards Peak Range, where the country was more

elevated.

April 6.—We were early astir this morning, catching and loading

some of the mules to take with us to carry stores for the invalids.

We started early, and took with us Brown, Boecking, Perry, and

Wommai. We took the latter, however, merely for the purpose of

bringing the cattle, in which duty he was assisted by Boecking. We

encamped on a back water, or tributary of the Mackenzie river.

Much anxiety was manifested on account of Boecking and

Wommai not making their appearance until after dusk, and only

bringing with them a portion of our herd of cattle, namely 26 out

of 38.

April 7.—We made a short stage, and camped on the bank of the

Mackenzie, at a hole where the water was very clear and good.

Our black fellow, Brown, on observing the goodness of the water,

pronounced his opinion that we should soon recover. After

assisting in unloading the mules. Dr. Leichhardt returned, withWommai, to the camp he had left, promising to rejoin us in a few

days with the remainder of the party and stores.

April 8.—Brown and Turnbull exhibit signs of improvement,

which Brown attributes to the goodness of the water at this place.

April 9.—We were this day visited by a large school of crows,

who not only annoyed us by their unpleasant croaking, but flew

off with pieces of our meat.

April 10.—Boecking was better this morning, and undertook to go

in search of the horses and goats. We mounted him on the horse

which we had tethered at the camp. As he did not return in the

evening we commenced firing guns; but no signs of Boecking all

night.

April 11.—Boecking not having returned last night, and as Brown

was too ill to go and track him, I myself took a walk along the

bank of the river, where I observed his trail for some distance. I

continued on his track until I was knocked up, and being fearful

that I might be required at the camp, after taking a little rest, I

returned, and left poor Boecking to his fate. About 3 p.m. he made

his appearance, and accounted for his absence from having

mistaken the gullies and backwaters of the Mackenzie for the

streams of the river itself. This is a mistake very commonly made

by parties who are not in the habit of travelling, and taking notes

of localities in the bush. He complained bitterly of having

forgotten to take his tinder-box, which deprived him of the

pleasure of a smoke or fire. There was a great show of fruit or

berries on various kinds of salsolaceous plants, which were good

to eat; of this fact poor Boecking was fortunately aware, and he

appears to have made so good a use of his knowledge, that on

travelling down the river in that direction afterwards, there was

scarcely a berry to be seen. These fruits appeared to act on

Boecking as a powerful tonic, and oil reaching the camp (althoughI cautioned him to the contrary) I placed by the side of the

blankets on which he was reclining a leg of mutton; on my return

to him shortly afterwards, what was my surprise at finding that he

had cleaned the meat to the bone, and was swelling and straining

his eyeballs like a frog in convulsions. But the most remarkable

feature in the whole affair was, that after this very remarkable feat,

which would have done credit to the celebrated Dando, he

continued to recover apace, and he ever afterwards attributed his

recovery to this leg of mutton.

On our way from the old to the present camp, the country in places

opened with small patches of plains, surrounded by Brigalowe,

Myall, Dodonea, Santalum, and innumerable other shrubs and

trees, forming thick scrubs. On the surface of these plains were

large blocks of fossil or petrified wood, in some cases whole stems

of trees in this state of petrifaction, and occasional blocks of

bright-looking coal cropping out along the banks of the river and

back waters, might be seen. I am certain that at this place coal of

the best and most gaseous description might be obtained,

sufficient to supply the colony for centuries. But how it is to be

brought into requisition, unless the Mackenzie river may prove to

be navigable, is beyond my power to show. It would not be

practicable in the direction in which we travelled, from the large

belts of scrub, and broken ranges, to take waggons even for the

purpose of occupying the country for grazing.

About four p.m.. Dr. Leichhardt returned with the remainder of the

party, in whom there was no improvement. Ours was now a sick

camp, indeed; myself and the doctor being the only two

individuals able to get about.

April 11 to 16.—The whole of my time, during this interval, was

devoted to searching for the horses, mules, goats, sheep, and

cattle. The sheep and goats were completely lost, and, if not

immediately forthcoming, the doctor intended abandoning them,and depending, in future, upon the cattle for subsistence, of which

we had yet left thirty-eight head.

April 17.—We made another start this morning, leaving the goats

and sheep to their fate. Our day's stage was at no great distance

from the bank of the river, and the country was much broken,

uneven, and intersected with innumerable dry, or nearly dried up,

backwaters and lagoons of the Mackenzie. This style of travelling

was very trying to my poor fellow-sufferers, who had to be lifted

on their horses on starting in the morning, and who were so

exhausted from the exertion of having to hold on by their horses'

manes in rising and descending the numerous gullies that, on

sighting a lagoon containing a good supply of water, the doctor

was induced to camp. Adorning the edge of this lake were some

very magnificent trees of the Bauhinia, from which I collected

seed. These trees were growing among Brigalowe, which formed a

thick scrub in one direction. On the immediate bank of the lagoon,

they were but thinly scattered, sufficient only to add to the beauty

of the scenery. It is a remarkable circumstance, that a tree so

common in its growth, and so generally distributed—so much so

as to be one of the greatest enemies to the settlers in the newly-

formed countries in the northern latitudes—should never have

been known to have produced either a seed or blossom. Among

the Brigalowe scrubs, as we drew nearer the tropics, I found the

undergrowth of smaller plants to change their features: instead of

the various kinds of Dodonea, frequently mentioned, and similar

plants, we had now many species of the Myaporum, very dwarf,

with bright, shining foliage, and waxen blossoms, highly

odoriferous. Three species of Jasminum, or sweet jasmine, with

blossoms plentiful, very large, and as fragrant as the European

species. These plants, were succeeded by large clusters of black,

brilliantly-shining berries, which the aborigines led as to

understand were poisonous.Three new species of Cassia; one species was in full flower, and

very fragrant—indeed, all the plants, as we approached the tropics,

appeared to possess a richer and more powerful perfume.

In the hollows, so common to the scrubs from whence the water

had receded, were a large species of Anthericum, or Bulbine—a

very remarkable sedge (Fimbristylus), and a very pretty dwarf,

growing densely pinnate—species of Ashonemonie. On

approaching the lagoons, or water-holes, towards sundown, we

seldom failed to disturb large flocks of the little partridge pigeon,

which we were in the habit of shooting, and found an agreeable

variety to our very limited diet. Of kangaroos, emus, and turkeys,

we had seen but few since leaving the Dawson River. Of snakes,

however, and iguannas, we had no stint; the largest specimen of

the former myself, Mr. Boecking, and Dr. Leichhardt saw while

camping on the Mackenzie River. Its place of abode was a very

large, hollow tree, standing at a considerable distance from our

camp, and on the edge of the river. Mr. Boecking was the first to

observe and report the circumstance; but, from his representation

of its immense size, we gave little credence to his statements. He

had only seen two-thirds of the creature, as it was in the act of

entering the hollow of the tree. Subsequently, however, both Dr.

Leichhardt and myself saw it at the same time, and precisely in the

same position as described by Boecking, with his head and part of

his body in the tree; but, having no gun at the time, we were

unable to kill and take its dimensions. It was certainly the largest

snake I had ever seen, and longer than I had imagined any of these

kind of reptiles to exist in Australia.

April 18.—One of the mules not being forthcoming this morning,

we were necessitated to remain at the camp for the day. I took a

stroll amongst the Brigalowe plantation, it was not dense enough

to be called a scrub; and I saw scattered in various directions a

number of very curious shells, convolute, and flat like

the ammonite, as well as a fine specimen of the Paludina, withthe operculums perfect. These were, however, only seen in or near

the little water-holes, surrounded by aquatic weeds, of which I

found one that both Dr. Leichhardt and myself considered as a

new species of Vallisneria, with pyramidal, showy blossoms. I

also saw in this scrub the beautiful arborescent Capparis

Mitchellii in full blossom, for the first time. I endeavoured to

preserve a few of these large, graceful, and fragile blossoms; but

my specimens, on opening them some months afterwards, on my

return to civilisation, I found to be much injured, and very

imperfect. Wommai shot a wallaby; the specimen was much

smaller than the common kind, and had a dark brown stripe on

either cheek. It was skinned, and the skin preserved; but,

unfortunately, it was afterwards accidentally lost, with the whole

of our collection of animals and insects, of which he had collected

a great number.

April 19.—This day, shortly after starting, the character of the

country changed to large, open, and very extensive plains of

volcanic formation, over which was scattered a variety of pretty-

looking pebbles, mixed with broken fragments of quartz and

agates; many of the latter were very clear, and presented a variety

of colors. About two hours after leaving the camp, Brown, the

black fellow, caught sight of Peak Ranges. They were merely two

very remarkable-looking pyramidal hills. Having again entered on

the region of plains, we had a renewal of our troubles with the

mules. Very common to these plains, was a large-

growing salsolaceous plant, belonging to the Chenopodeaceæ, of

Jussieu. These weeds grow in the form of a large ball, to the height

of five or six feet, and, being annuals, die away in the autumn,

and, as they do not speedily decay, lie loose on the surface.

Whirlwinds were very common, and, as these weeds came within

its influence, they were taken up to a considerable height,

sometimes out of sight. Very frequently these eddies took place

within a few yards in advance of our cavalcade. No sooner were afew of these balls (or, as we were in the habit of calling them,

"rolly-poleys") taken up with the current of air, than the mules

began to kick and buck, until they had relieved themselves of their

loads. The exercise necessary for catching and reloading them

again was very trying, when the smallness of our numbers and the

heat of the weather is considered, we being now seven miles

within the Tropics.

Continued travelling longer than usual, and began to apprehend

that we should have to camp without water, when Brown was

heard to cooee. We followed the direction of the cooee, and came

upon a fine lagoon of good water. The flies continued

troublesome, and we travelled with our eyes but half open, and the

mosquitoes to-night prevented any of us getting a fair share of

sleep.

I forgot to remark, that on the Mackenzie we found a large

climbing papilionaceous plant, probably a glycine. The fruit was a

large pod, nine inches long. The beans contained in these pods

were, at the suggestion of Dr. Leichhardt, roasted and made into

coffee, in which character it was used; one dose of this beverage

was sufficient, as it created a violent vomiting and diarrhœa.

April 20.—Left our encampment this morning about ten a.m., and

continued travelling over the same fine open country, the soil

being rich and of deep black color, covered with the richest

verdure, consisting of two grasses, much admired by sheep-

farmers, namely, Panicum Leavinode, or millet grass,

and Anthistiria, or kangaroo grass. The Panicum Leavinode is the

plant from which the natives make their bread, and is called by the

blacks of Liverpool Plains, coola grass. This plant produces an

abundance of a small firm and heavy seed. which when ripe, is by

them collected in nearly the same manner as corn by the

Europeans. It is cut, dried, and threshed, and after the seed is

properly winnowed from the chaff, it is crushed and pounded to a

pulp between two heavy stones, after which it is made into bread.It has often puzzled me to know how the wild blacks contrived to

cut the grass, having, as far as I have observed, nothing in the

shape of sharp instruments at all adapted for the purpose. We

occasionally came across very large heaps of the refuse, that had

evidently been cut by some sharp instrument. From the Hunter's

river to the Tropics, the aborigines appeared to have been fully

aware of the value and importance of this plant, and they all

appeared to adopt the same method in its preparation.

Among the grasses on these plains were a great variety of

aromatic herbs, which, from the trampling of our horses and cattle,

gave out a sweet refreshing perfume. Among them I found a new

species of marjoram, which we were sometime afterwards in the

habit of cutting, drying, and using in the liquor in which our dried

meat was boiled, and was a great improvement to the flavour to

our apology for soup. The only trees on these plains were a few

solitary individuals of the Brigalowe.

To this fine country, unfortunately, there appeared to be no means

of approach with a dray, which was in every way so admirably

adapted to the purposes of keeping either sheep or cattle, as, in

addition to the richness of the herbage, the little clumps of shrubs

first mentioned would form excellent places of shelter during the

heat of the day. The weather continued hot, and the flies as

troublesome as ever. We had travelled until late in the afternoon

without sighting water, or anything like a water channel, and we

began to fear that we should have to camp without it. This was no

pleasant prospect, as the invalids, who were still suffering from

the effects of fever and ague, were beginning to complain much of

thirst.

The cattle, also, from the excessive heat of the weather, appeared

to be suffering from the same cause. Brown, the blackfellow, was

dis-. patched to search for this much coveted agent, with

instructions to fire a gun in the event of his being successful.

Should we find water first we were of course to fire a gun in the

same manner, as a signal for him to join us.Shortly after Brown departed we observed what appeared to be a

very small channel in wet weather; by following this down for a

little more than an hour, we came to a hole containing a small

quantity of liquid mud. We had much difficulty in keeping the

mules from rushing into it and getting bogged. Although we

succeeded in keeping the mules from it, we were not so fortunate

with some of the party, who, more stubborn than the mules, would

persist in drinking a small quantity of this lukewarm and muddy

deposit. We continued following the course of the channel until

sundown, when we came, as we expected, upon a fine creek at a

bend where there was a fine sheet of pure water, with sandy banks.

The party were much exhausted on reaching the camp. Just as we

came upon the creek. Brown rode up and joined us, with the

intelligence that he also had found a waterhole.

April 21.—In collecting the horses this morning, we perceived

that four were missing; and we were consequently compelled to

remain at the camp the whole day. It was fortunate for us that

along the hank of the creek were some fine green spreading gum

trees, which partly-sheltered us from the scorching rays of the sun.

Growing and twining round the branches of Dodonea, bastard

sandal wood, and other shrubs, which clothed the bank of the

creek, were a large number of the native melon (Cucumis mollis),

or downy cucumber, which, some months subsequent to the

present time, we were in the habit of collecting and converting

into an article of food, when we had but little else to eat. We now,

for the first time, began to feel the loss of our sheep and goats. We

had no meat, and it was too late to kill a bullock. In this dilemma.

Dr. Leichhardt ordered the cook to mix up a lot of flour, and

treated us all to a feed of dips. These were made as follows:—a

quantity of flour was mixed up with water, and stirred with a

spoon to a certain consistency, and dropped into a pot of boiling

water, a spoonful at a time. Five minutes boiling was sufficient,

when they were eaten with the water in which they were boiled.April 22.—Having no meat, and as the morning broke fine, the

doctor determined on killing and drying our only cow. As this was

the first beast we had dried after the South American fashion, in

the sun, perhaps a short description of the process may not be

considered uninteresting. The bull, or, as in our case, the cow,

being killed, it was first cut into quarters, or large pieces, and

placed on a stage erected for the occasion. In this manner it was

allowed to remain one night. I should have said that we always

killed in the evening. In the meantime, the party—at least, such as

were able to job about—were engaged in various duties connected

with the drying; some in cutting saplings and forks, which others

carried to the place where they were wanted for the stage. After a

sufficient quantity of forks and poles were cut, and on the ground,

they were rigged up in the shape of a stage, on which the meat was

hung. The stage being erected, in readiness at daylight in the

morning, the whole of them were employed in sharpening their

knives, and cutting off the meat from the bones in long steaks, and

not more than one inch in thickness. As the meat was cut off in

this manner, others were employed in hanging it on the poles.

Generally speaking, a bullock would be cut up, and hung out by

two or three p.m. It was allowed to remain in this fashion until

eleven o'clock on the following day, when it was turned, much to

the annoyance of myriads of blow-flies, who had deposited

thereon a tolerable quantity of larvæ. On the third day,

these larvæ, or fly-blows, or maggots (it is best to speak in the

vulgar tongue), might be seen in full life and activity travelling

and exploring the piece of meat which had, for a time, become

their adopted home. In turning, we, of course, knocked off as

many of these gentry as possible. If the weather proved fine, a

bullock was dried, chopped up, and packed in four or five days.

We were doomed in this, as in everything else connected with the

expedition, to be unfortunate.April 23.—The party were busily employed in cutting up the beef;

and a great portion was hung out to dry. Before, however, they had

finished cutting up, it commenced raining heavily, and continued

for the remainder of that day and the following night. Having no

tents, we were, of course, completely saturated in our blankets;

and this, we had every reason to apprehend, would tend to a

relapse with the invalids—who had, for the last few days,

exhibited signs of improvement—as well as the destruction of our

meat.

April 24.—The rain still continued until nearly noon, when it

cleared up, and the sun made its appearance, when we lost no time

in turning the meat. It continued fine, however, for a very short

time, when it commenced again raining in torrents; and, as the

party had no means of shelter, the fever and ague again made its

appearance.

April 25.—This morning broke fine, and the sun rose in all its

splendor. The meat was again turned, and was found to be eatable,

although, from the late rains, it was much and strongly tainted.

Several of our horses were missing.

April 26.—The weather was very warm; and many of the party,

from their late soaking, were very weak again, and moved about

with difficulty.

April 27.—The doctor had intended going this morning,

accompanied by Brown, to look for the stray horses, but they both

found themselves too unwell.

April 28.—The doctor and Wommai went in search of the horses,

but found two only. Great dissatisfaction was expressed at the

camp this day, from the doctor having reduced our rations of

tainted meat to two-thirds of a pound to each individual. It wasrather unfortunate that he should have done this just at the time

when they were most in need of nourishment.

April 29.—Both Dr. Leichhardt and Wommai went out this

morning to look for the horses. The former returned shortly after

starting, being too ill to continue the search; but the latter did not

return all night. From the last two fine days, the meat was well

dried, and was cut up with tomahawks into small pieces, of about

two inches in length, and packed in sacks for the convenience of

carriage. The entrails were dried and packed up in a similar

manner, for the use of our four canine companions—namely,

Spring, Norval, Camden, and Wasp; the latter was a small terrier,

and a great pet of the doctors.

April 30.—From the continued ill state of the doctor and many of

the party, a proposition was again made to him to return. Upon

hearing this second application, he came to me, and asked if I was

one of those for going back. I told him that I was not, but, on the

contrary, desirous of reaching Swan River; and I thought that, by

studying the wishes of his party, ha would find them pretty much

of my mind. And, in the first place, I suggested an increase in

flour, which was immediately granted.

May 1.—We were busy this day in packing up, and making

arrangements for another start. The increase of our flour diet had

already done wonders, and given a fresh impetus to the invalids.

May 2.—This morning made another move from our camp. Just,

however, as we were leaving, our usual bad luck began to show

itself. Mr. Mann was taken seriously and suddenly ill. As

everything was in readiness for moving, the doctor commenced

the march, and left poor Mr. Mann behind with Brown, who was

also unwell, with instructions, as soon as Mr. Mann felt himself

sufficiently recovered, to follow upon our tracks. We continued

travelling over well-grassed plains, of great extent, until nearlysundown, without finding water. Dr. Leichhardt caught sight of a

number of cockatoos; and, by tracking the course of their flight,

we, in a short time, reached a creek well supplied With water.

Scattered over these plains were some fine trees of the laurel-

leaved and box gum. We had the remarkable Peak Range in view

the greater part of the day, and, by evening, we had approached it

so closely as to be able to discern the outlines of trees on the tops

of the peaks. Neither Mr. Mann, Brown, or Wommai appeared that

night.

May 3.—About eleven in the forenoon Mr. Mann and Brown

reached the camp. They appeared to be much exhausted, having

had nothing to eat except a few very small fish, found in some

small shallow water holes, and were caught easily with a pocket

handkerchief. Night closed without Wommai making his

appearance with the cattle. This circumstance created much

uneasiness at the camp, as we had nothing but the cattle to fall

back upon for subsistence.

May 4.—Wommai reached the camp by breakfast time, but

without the cattle. The poor fellow was nearly starved, and

otherwise in a bad humour. He had tasted nothing since parting

with us, and having missed our track in consequence of Dr.

Leichhardt having made a sudden turn to the right, he had taken

the cattle back to the old camp, where he had left them, and had

since followed upon our track on horseback until reaching the

camp, to avoid (as he said) being starved to death. Before leaving

this morning, Mr. Hely and Brown were dispatched for the cattle,

with instructions to bring them in the direction of the Peaks, as our

stage Would be in that direction. Our day's journey was over the

same fine rich open plains, and we encamped in the evening at

one' of the doctor's old camps, when on his way to Port Essington,

at no great distance from the Peak.May 5.—Made a short stage over a beautiful undulating park-like

country, better grassed if possible than any we had as yet passed

over. We saw many kangaroos and emus. We camped early in the

afternoon, at a fine waterhole. We fixed our camp on a patch of

elevated land, a kind of terrace, on which were some fine patches

of scrub. It was from this camp that we intended to commence

making our westing, or longitude, for Swan River. Neither Mr.

Hely or Brown made their appearance with the cattle.

May 6.—Here we had to remain until the arrival of the men who

were absent, which was not until the evening, and then their

appearance was anything but of a gratifying character. They had

seen nothing of the cattle, and returned with but one horse

between them. Brown lost his, the day after leaving us, at the

camp where we had killed and dried the cow.

May 7.—Here we were again fixed for probably some time, as it

was not at all unlikely that the cattle may have taken their journey

homewards. Dr. Leichhardt went out to reconnoitre the

surrounding country, and Mr. Hely, Brown, and Wommai to find

the cattle and horses. They took two or three days provisions with

them. Mr. Mann shot a few small partridge-pigeons at a waterhole

this morning, Dr. Leichhardt did not return to the camp at night,

and much anxiety was manifested on his account. Of course,

neither Hely, Brown, or Wommai, were expected for two or three

days.

May 8.—The doctor did not join us until noon this day, and

accounted for his absence by having lost his way. He blamed us

for not firing guns, on his not appearing at the camp last night. We

of course expressed our regret at his having to sleep all night

without a blanket, food, or society. But after taking his food he

fortunately lost his appetite and ill humour together. He spoke

highly of the country to the westward, our intended line of route.He had seen plenty of water. The country was, however, rough and

stoney, and bad travelling for horses.

May 9.—Erected a kind of bower, as the doctor was unwell. The

other members of the party suffering from a violent attack of

diarrhœa.

May 10, 11, and 12.—The nights became cold. Thermometer

average—sundown, 64; sunrise, 42. Our latitude, 22.54 south;

elevation, 1,038 feet. The cook, Boecking, put leaven in our

miniature damper—a great improvement.

May 13.—The nights continued cold. The doctor was requested to

fulfil his promise to the party in giving them some flour and sugar

to celebrate our reaching Peak Range. He refused. In this matter

he may have acted from a feeling of economy, fearing that we may

have lost our cattle, as well as several horses; nothing as yet

having been heard of the party gone in search.

May 14.—This morning Dr. Leichhardt rode to a waterhole, three

miles from our camp, to ascertain the capabilities of that place for

killing another bullock, if the cattle are found.

May 15.—The party in search of the cattle had now been absent

nine days, and great anxiety was manifested for their safety.

Symptoms of fever and ague were again apparent with those

whom we had imagined to have recovered. Of what incalculable

benefit to the party would have been a package of those invaluable

pills manufactured by Dr. L.L. Smith, the infallible properties of

which are modestly represented by the inventor as being capable

of caring every disease incidental to humanity, from a corn to

a consumption. Dr. Smith was, however, non est, and his pills

consequently not comeatable, so that it is now useless to lament

their absence. The moon changed, and the weather became cloudy

and overcast in the evening. I believe this, however, to be prettygenerally the case at every change of the moon in the northern

latitudes.

May 16.—No signs of the cattle, or the party who were in search

of them. We had only dried meat enough to last us the day, and the

country being destitute of game, our position was not of the most

cheering character. If they are fortunate enough to find and bring

in the whole of the cattle, they will not he more than sufficient to

carry us to Swan River, which we cannot expect to reach in less

than eighteen months.

May 17.—Mr. Hely, Brown, and Wommai, returned with only

nine head of cattle, which they found in one mob by themselves,

having separated from the main herd. They had also seen two

more mobs, one consisting of four, and another of three, making

altogether eighteen head, and there were consequently twenty

more of which they had seen nothing. If we are fortunate in

finding the whole herd, it will be very difficult in future to prevent

their straying. They were fortunate in catching, with the assistance

of the dogs, an emu and a kangaroo, or they would have suffered

from want of food, having eaten their rations by the fourth day

after leaving the camp. They had come suddenly on a camp of

wild blacks, before either party were aware of it. They

endeavoured by signs to make themselves understood, but.

May 18.—This day it was the doctor's intention to return to the

creek we had previously left, for the purpose of killing and drying

one of the nine bullocks, his object being to get the benefit of

water, as our present water hole was nearly exhausted. But not

being able to find the horses, and many of the mules also having

strayed, he determined on killing the bullock at our present camp.

We had been already two days without meat; and we were not

sorry to see Brown take aim with his rifle, and bring down one of

the fattest of the remaining nine. We were all very hungry, and setto with a will in rigging up a stage, in order that no time should be

lost, while the weather proved fine.

May 19.—Mr. Hely and Brown were again despatched for the

cattle, with a stock of provisions for five days. Brown intimated

having found a fine camp at some distance from this place; and

Hely and Brown had instructions given to them by the doctor that,

if our present stock of water proved insufficient, we should move

on to the place indicated, where they were to rejoin us, if they

found we had left the present camping ground on their return. We

were all busy in cutting up and drying. A killing day was always a

grand day with us, as we had as much and, in fact, more than we

could eat. The boiler was never idle during that period, and the

cook had his hands full, as, in fact, had all the rest, with grilled

bones and Boup made from the head and other offal. I had cut,

dried, and rubbed to powder some of the new native marjoram,

which the cook mixed up with the blood and some fat; and with

this he made thirty-two black puddings.

Having been so long stinted to a small quantity of dried tainted

meat, we requested the doctor to allow us to reserve a piece of the

round for salting, the taste of which, we told him, would remind us

of old times. He consented, and a piece about thirty pounds was

salted and put by. From the time of killing the last bullock up to

the present moment, we had a succession of beautifully fine

weather. We had no sooner, however, got the meat cut up and hung

on the stage, when, about six p.m., it commenced raining heavily.

Poor Leichhardt appeared to be almost heart-broken at the

circumstance, remarking, that nothing but a continued chain of

misfortune appeared to attend the present expedition. We covered

the stage where the meat was hanging with our two old tents, and

crawled underneath for shelter, enjoying, not only the rank smell,

but receiving all the gravy as it exuded from the meat. We were

just on the eve of going to sleep, when we were disturbed by

hearing that the dogs had broken loose, and were making free withour beautiful round of salt beef. This fact was no sooner

communicated to those who were under the stage, than they

immediately arose. But our discovery arrived too late; as, after

dragging it in the sand, they had eaten all the fat off it, of which

we were all particularly fond. The dogs were again tied up, and the

meat put by until morning, when it was washed preparatory to

being used. Another specimen, as the doctor remarked, of the

spirit of opposition and misfortune accompanying our

undertaking. "Misfortunes never come alone", says the proverb.

We had no sooner again taken to our cover, than Turnbull, who

was watching the cattle, gave the very unpleasant intelligence that

they had again bolted. This was a worse misfortune than the loss

of the round of beef, and sent us again to our miserable quarters

with heavy hearts.

May 20.—It was delightful to contrast the brilliant rising of the

sun this morning, with our dark and unhealthy quarters of the

previous night; nothing could exceed the balmy fragrance of the

air, and the chirping of the little feathered choristers, as they

approached to drink at the water hole then fast drying up. We were

all very busy in cutting up and turning the meat. We had scarcely

congratulated ourselves on the favorable progress made in

preserving the meat, when, about four p.m., the sky again became

overcast and cloudy, as also did the countenances of my

companions at the prospect of another wet night. Fortunately,

however, it cleared up in the evening, and a fine clear night

followed, thus enabling the whole of the party to obtain a good

night's repose around the fire. As the nights were now getting cold,

we began to fancy we could put up with an additional half-blanket,

as those in use were half worn out. Before going to sleep, we

became alarmed at the non-appearance of Wommai; but our fears

were allayed about midnight, when he made his appearance with

the cattle, having found his way to the camp by moonlight. The

instinct of some of the aborigines is remarkable, as in thisinstance. Here was a black fellow, in a new country, hundreds of

miles from civilised life, with no track, and no knowledge of the

use of the compass, traversing many miles of country, and, being

in search of cattle, rendered his course circuitous; and yet, without

a landmark, and with a mob of cattle driving, he managed to travel

for hours by night through a country, in many cases, thickly

timbered and scrubby. With all these impediments, is it not

wonderful that, by an instinct peculiar, I believe; to savages only,

he was able to steer directly to our camp, which occupied,

comparatively speaking, so small a space?

May 21.—The weather continued fine, and our meat was drying

beautifully. Much anxiety was manifested on account of the lost

stock. I looked over my botanical specimens, and was rejoiced to

find them uninjured, excepting some specimens of the beautiful

but fragile blossoms of the Capparis Mitchellii. Wommai brought

me, on his return, some green and dry pods of the creeping plant

to which we had given the name of the Mackenzie Bean, having

found it, in the first instance, growing on the banks of that river. I

subsequently found the same plant very plentifully on the banks of

the river Burnett, in the district of Wide Bay.

May 22.—Another bright and glorious sunrise—a finer day never

broke. A great consolation to those labouring under depression of

spirits consequent on their long illness. Yesterday the cattle

contrived again to escape, and poor Wommai, as a matter of

course, was sent to bring them back. But for the good tempered

and willing disposition of Wommai on all occasions, I know not

what would have been the fate of the expedition. After having

eaten the fiour and sugar to a certain extent, the remainder was put

by, and it was laid down as a general rule, to be only used on

festivals and fast days, such as Christmas Day, Good Friday, &c.

The following day being Whitsunday, was, after some little

discussion, declared as coming under the head of festivals, it was

determined we should have our accustomed feed allowed on suchoccasions—a boiled suet pudding weighing five pounds. This,

when divided among nine individuals, was a very great indulgence

towards us on the part of the doctor, our usual allowance of flour

diet, whilst that article was in general use, being only three ounces

to each individual daily. The anticipation of the forthcoming feed

of pudding gave a cheerful appearance to the countenances of each

individual. The party still continued very weak. I cannot help

thinking that much of our sickness was attributable to an over

indulgence on killing days, when each man had the privilege of

eating as much as he wanted. No small temptation certainly to

men who were, during the intervals, limited to a small allowance.

These days were a kind of jubilee in our reckoning,—cooking and

eating, rolling and smoking to any extent, and gnawing grilled

bones as large as one's arm,—this feeding on the spare bones and

other parts of the bullock, which would otherwise have been lost,

continued for four or five days, the time usually necessary in

drying the meat. This over eating and luxuriating, like other

debauches, had, in my opinion, a great influence in prolonging the

sickness.

Wommai returned with the cattle. During Mr. Perry's watch they

again made off, and Mr. P. very foolishly followed them, and lost

himself. In about four hours he returned. He had the good sense to

give the horse his head, or he would never have found the camp at

all. A sort of fatality appeared to accompany Mr. Perry, this being

the third time he had lost himself while on watch, and on every

occasion it was on the eve of a festival. It was hinted by some of

the party that Dr. Leichhardt should be applied to for a little sugar

in addition to the flour, as in that case Mr. Turnbull volunteered

his services as cook in making a bolster pudding. Latitude of our

camp, 22.54; elevation, 1,038 feet.

May 23.—All along the banks of the rivers and creeks, as well as

other low situations where the water occasionally settled, forming

a rich diluvian, we seldom failed to observe an abundant growth ofa species of grewia. The grewia in general appearance and foliage

is not unlike the filbert nut tree: instead, however, of growing to

the size of the latter, its height seldom exceeded five feet, except

in very sheltered and favorable situations, where it occasionally

attained a foot or eighteen inches higher. The product of this plant

was a small fruit forming a three-celled capsule, about the size of

the common hazel nut of Britain. Its appearance to the hungry

traveller, at the first glance, was rather of a tempting character,

being a rich soft red, like that common to peaches, apparently

fleshy. On testing its qualities, however, it was found to be of little

use except to those who could boast of a good set of teeth, which

enabled them to crack the internal stone of which it principally

consisted, when a very pleasant and refreshing taste was obtained,

not unlike that of the raisin of commerce. During our long sojourn

at certain camps, which were frequently in the neighbourhood of

the grewia plantations, we were in the habit of collecting the fruit,

and afterwards pounding them between stones or otherwise. This,

when boiled in a good quantity of water, afforded us a very

wholesome and agreeable beverage, very highly prized by us at

our solitary and weary tropical encampments. This being

Whitsunday, and consequently a festival, we had our promised

pudding; the doctor, on being asked, gave us some sugar, and

Turnbull made a bolster instead of a suet one. To counteract the

effect of the heavy feed, I took a walk with the gun in the

expectation of shooting some partridge-pigeons, which were often

seen between the patches of scrubs, but saw nothing worth powder

and shot.

May 24.—This, the morn of the Queen's birth-day, was ushered in

with the death of poor Norval, our sheep and cattle dog. This dog

was always considered as one of the party, having, prior to the loss

of the sheep and goats, had his allotted duties to perform, the same

as the rest of us. And well and faithfully he performed his part,

when assisting myself and Wommai in driving the sheep throughthe long grass and tangled scrubs; many times, poor fellow, when

the sun was shining and the thermometer standing 120 and 124, in

the confined patches of plains surrounded by brigalowe scrubs,

which prevented the ingress of a breath of wind to assist

respiration, have we, although reluctantly, been compelled to leave

him to recover himself,—and he has frequently not overtaken us at

the camp until late at night. His services were now no longer

needed, and as there was a chance of our running short of

provisions, he was doomed to 'die the death', by the hands of Dr.

Leichhardt, and Boecking, the cook. An application had been

made to the blacks the previous evening, but they refused to have

any hand in killing Norval, who was a favorite with the party

generally.

Soup was to have been made of the green hide of the last bullock

killed, but it was required to make tether ropes, in the manufacture

of which two or three of us were busy the whole of the forenoon.

The Queen's Birth-day was of course observed by so loyal a

subject as Dr. Leichhardt, as another festival, and we had a

repetition of yesterday's pudding. After despatching the dinner, the

doctor arose and proposed the Queen's health, which we were

requested to drink standing. The toast was drunk with as much

loyalty and ardour as could have been expected in cold tea,

without milk or sugar.

May 25.—We to-day tried the first dish of our new batch of meat,

which proved excellent, considering the rain during the operation

of drying.

The glass this morning at sunrise, was only one degree above

freezing point. This was a dull season for me in the way of plants,

the only ones now in blossom being a handsome species

of acacia and an alstromeria. Wommai was again sent for the

cattle this morning.

May 27.—The wind this day was very cold, and drove us to our

blankets.May 28.—It was fortunate for us we had bagged and put by the

dry meat, as this morning it commenced raining heavily, and

continued the whole day and following night, a regular tropical

soaker, as different from a Scotch mist as is a south-west rain in

Melbourne to a water-spout.

About noon Hely and Brown returned to the camp like drowned

rats, after an absence of nine days, and what was very remarkable,

and by no means satisfactory, they returned on foot, having lost

their horses. They said that after travelling a day and a half, they

were again attacked by fever and ague, which prevented their

looking for the cattle, and was the cause of their losing the horses

they were riding. After in a measure recovering from their

sickness, they returned towards the camp, and fell in with and

drove to within two or three miles of the camp our horses and

mules; at this point they lost them, as well as the horses they were

riding. They had evidently suffered from the effects of the fever

and ague, as well as the fatigue of walking to the camp. At 6 p.m.

the rain was accompanied by heavy thunder, and continued

pouring down all night. Poor Wommai had now been absent in

search of the cattle for three days, and we began to feel anxious

for his safety, not having taken with him a supply of provisions.

May 28.—This morning we were a very miserable looking party

indeed, moving with much difficulty. The rains of yesterday and

last night had extinguished our fire, and the wood and chips being

saturated, it was a difficult task to re-kindle it The party squatting

on their heels, taking their miserable breakfast around the fire, was

a picture to behold. Wommai returned to the camp, but without the

cattle, they having bolted from him during the heavy rains and

thunder of the previous night. The poor fellow was nearly

exhausted by exposure to the heavy rains and want of food, having

started, as I before observed, without taking a supply. We were

now in a truly unenviable position, without horses, mules, cattle,sheep, or goats; so that our only dependence now was the dried

carcase of the last bullock killed.

May 29.—Dr. Leichhardt now, with the assistance of Wommai,

undertook to search for the whole, or a portion of the lost stock; as

this was likely to be a work of time, they took with them a

sufficient supply of food to last for four or five days. Mr. Hely

also accompanied them to the place where he and Brown had

deposited the saddles, and from whence he returned safely with

those articles. About eight o'clock, the doctor and Wommai

returned to the camp without any of the cattle or other stock they

went in search of. They had, however, been fortunate in catching

an emu, with the assistance of the dogs. They had eaten nearly the

whole of their game before reaching the camp, and we had

consequently the poor satisfaction of sleeping upon the

expectation of having the remains for our breakfast the next

morning in perspective.

May 30, Sunday.—This morning, we made an early, and I am

sorry to say, retrograde movement with our remaining mules and

horses in the direction of our former encampment at "Cow-killing

Creek". Independent of the lowness of spirits, consequent on our

travelling in a home direction, the day's stage was tedious over the

plains of Peak Ranges; we passed a few small water holes with

sandstone beds, and camped about five p.m. on what appeared to

be a small creek containing a moderate supply of water, the bed of

the creek, like that of the water holes we had previously passed,

was of sandstone formation. Saw two trees of the very elegant and

beautiful Hakea Lowria, in full blossom, of which I obtained

specimens.

May 31.—We succeeded in reaching Cow-killing Creek, at four

p.m., where we camped after a very fatiguing journey to the

invalids, some of whom were getting worse. In the course of our

day's stage, we passed one or two clumps of shrubs, where Iobtained seed of an odoriferous species of mangrove (myaporum,

and a specimen of an interesting species of Tecoma. It was also in

one of these patches of scrubs that Wommai shot a native turkey

or bustard, which was very fat and yielded us an excellent supper.

It was cut into steaks and fried in the pan.

June 1.—Last evening a cabinet council was held as to the best

means of obtaining our missing stock, and the result of our

deliberations was, that it would be desirable for the doctor himself,

accompanied by Wommai, to again undertake the search. As this

was likely to be a work of time, and as there were again symptoms

amongst us of a return of our former sickness, we succeeded in

rigging up a kind of bower as a protection from the mid-day sun.

June 2.—It was evident, from the sinking state of the sick, that

exercise, as recommended by Dr. Leichhardt, proved but an

indifferent substitute for medicine. Dr. Leichhardt and Wommai

yesterday started in search of the cattle, and consequently seven

only were left in the camp. Out of these, six were again laid up, or,

perhaps, laid down would be the most correct manner of

expressing it, with fever and ague. The continued and long

suffering of Mr. Boecking had affected his mind. He was the

strongest and most muscular man in the party, and, in a state of

delirium, he arose from his blanket, reeling like a drunken man,

asking if the pudding was in the pot, and other extraordinary

questions. Mr. Perry, in addition to the fever and ague, suffered

from a violent attack of diarrhœa at the same time. Our continued

sickness, combined with an absence of medicine, and the loss of

stock, with all the other untoward circumstances, had driven them

to the conclusion that the most prudent course to be taken, under

the circumstances, would be to return while we had the dried meat

and few remaining stores; and although I was, up to this time,

anxious to reach the Swan, I did not consider myself justified, any

longer, in differing from the others in their decision, as an oppositecourse now was likely to lead to an eventual loss of life to many, if

not the whole of the party.

June 3, 4, and 5.—There was no improvement at the camp. On the

fifth I added myself to the list of invalids.

June 6.—This morning Mr. Turnbull took a short ride, and, on his

return, with the assistance of the dog Swift, succeeded in catching

a kangaroo. He was only able to bring the tail with him; but

Brown, the black fellow, jumped on the horse, and, following

Turnbull's tracks returned with the body, which was at once cut

into strips, and dried in the same manner as the beef, as any

addition to our stock of provisions was of great importance, and

not to be overlooked.

June 7.—This morning the doctor and his black companion,

Wommai, returned with only four head of cattle. He appeared to

be much distressed at the apparently helpless state of the party. He

came to me, as I was lying in my blanket, and inquired my opinion

respecting the party and its present prospects. After much painful

conversation, he said he also thought the best step to be adopted

was to go back; and that he would do so as soon as he could find

the missing mules and horses. Only four head of cattle having

been returned to the camp, they were anxious to make off again to

their companions, a double degree of vigilance was requisite in

watching; and for this purpose, the doctor offered, as an

inducement, a two-pound fat cake to those who were willing to

undertake the duty; considering the small quantity now on hand,

this was no common bribe, and it consequently elicited offers

from more than one candidate.

June 8.—In despite of all our caution in watching, the cattle

contrived to escape again: during the night. Wommai went in

search, and brought them back in the early part of the day.June 9.—The doctor and Wommai went again in quest of the

mules and horses. Having determined upon returning, he did not

intend troubling himself to look for more of the cattle, as he

considered that the four which were at the camp, with the dried

meat in store, would be sufficient to take us back to the

Condamine River, where we should find stations. To secure the

four we already possessed, it was unanimously agreed that the

party at the camp should take watches of two hours each during

the day and night. By some means, however, they again escaped in

the forenoon, during Mr. Turnbull's watch. In the course of his

search, the doctor fell in with some black fellows, who appeared

very shy. They would not allow him to approach. He cut from his

red woollen shirt two buttons, which he put. in a piece of paper,

and placed on the ground. On going to some little distance from

this spot, the black fellows: were observed to approach the paper,

which they picked up, and appeared to be much pleased with the

buttons.

June 10.—The party were earnestly employed to-day in rubbing

and scraping off the flakes of dirty flour adhering to the bags. This

very questionable-looking material was made into a kind of

dough, which from the quantity of woolly fibres mixed with it

from the bags, had, when cooked, pretty much the appearance of

balls of worsted, far from tempting to a gourmand.

June 11.—For the last few nights the weather was excessively

cold, and accompanied by sharp frosts, which froze the water or

cold tea in our pannikins, at no great distance from the Are, to the

thickness of a penny piece.

June 12.—The doctor not returning, and having again lost the four

head of cattle, we became alarmed at the hole which our daily

consumption was making in our stock of dried beef, which was

intended as our principal supply to take us again to the haunts of

civilized life, a distance of 700 or 800 miles.June 13.—The weather fortunately continued fine. By a very

singular and fortunate coincidence, as our horses at the camp

became knocked up, three mules and two horses made their

appearance of their own accord.

June 14.—A continuation of good luck appeared to be our present

destiny, for as yesterday we were blessed with the return of some

horses and mules, just as they were needed, to-day as Mr. Mann

was strolling on a rising ground at a little distance from our

encampment, he caught sight of our four missing bullocks. These

cattle were now far more wild and unmanageable than before, and

some little care was necessary in heading them round to the camp,

at a part where an angle was formed by the creek taking a turn.

After some consideration, it was deemed the safest plan to shoot

and secure one at least, as there was every probability of their

again bolting. To accomplish this object. Brown, who was an

excellent shot, placed himself behind the butt of a large gum tree

that was growing on the bank of the creek. Turnbull jumped on a

horse and headed the cattle round in the direction of the tree

behind which Brown was ensconced, and from whence he after

some trouble succeeded in shooting one: it was a beautiful shot,

considering that, he was aware in his own mind that our future

subsistence almost depended on his taking a correct aim. He

lodged a rifle bullet just in the centre of the forehead, in the very

spot which stockmen call the star. This beast was in excellent

condition, and we watched his falling with much anxiety. We were

now, comparatively speaking, a happy party. A supply of meat

secured for our return homewards, as well as an immediate feast

of marrow-bones, devilled-bones, and other choice dainties, such

as soup from the head, the tail, the liver and lights—to say nothing

of the black puddings. The party were too weak to carry the meat,

and it was consequently opened and skinned, and in that manner

left until the following day. We had all a heavy feed off the fry forsupper, and if none of those who partook of it were visited with an

attack of night mare it was a mercy.

June 15.—We were all busy in cutting up and hanging out our

meat. We had scarcely half finished our work when the weather

became overcast and cloudy (as was the case generally every

change of the moon), and we began to fear we were to be visited

with a continuation of our usual bad luck. We were too

weakhanded to finish cutting up the beast to-night, and as the

weather looked had we were the less anxious ahout it

June 16.—This morning broke beautifully, and we commenced a

renewal of our duties of cutting up with redoubled vigour. After

the meat was hung up to dry, Mr. Hely, Mr. Turnbull, and Brown,

expressed a wish to go and look for the doctor and Wommai, who

had been absent eight days. About noon they started, and as

Brown was an excellent bushman and tracker, we were in hopes

they would succeed in their search.

June 17.—We were this evening agreeably surprised by the

reappearance of Dr. Leichhardt and the faithful and trusty

Wommai. They brought only a part of the mules and horses,

although they had travelled back on our former track a distance of

ninety miles, in fact to the Mackenzie river, where they found

some fine radishes, turnips, and other edible vegetables of my

sowing. This was gratifying news to us, as we expected to find the

same at all our old encampments on our return, where I never

failed to sow seeds, although at the time I had little thought or

expectation of either eating the produce or of seeing the places

again. Mr. Ferry, the saddler, was busy converting the straps of the

pack saddles, which we are compelled to leave behind, into

hobbles for the horses and mules. Indeed, it was at this camp

where the things of which I have formerly written were deposited,

and Dr. Leichhardt intended to call for them on his future

expedition.June 18.—This was the anniversary of the Battle of Waterloo, and

was observed as a festival. From this time until the 21st, Perry, the

saddler, was busy in converting the straps and buckles of the

abandoned pack-saddles into hobbles for the horses and mules.

On the 22nd, we reached the banks of the Mackenzie, and, on the

following morning, we made a start for the bounds of civilization;

and, in order to do so at the earliest possible moment. Dr.

Leichhardt intended making forced and hurried stages. As we

followed upon our outward track, it will be scarcely necessary for

me to give a detail of each day's proceeding. By the second of

July, we had reached the Christmas Ranges, instead of the

Expedition Ranges, owing to the doctor having kept too westerly a

course. On the 3rd, camped at the foot of Expedition Range, on

the bank of a pretty creek, lined with the trailing branches of

the Cucumis mollis, or native melon. There was a plentiful supply

of this fruit; and we grilled, boiled, and ate a great quantity.

Having made rapid stages since leaving the Mackenzie, the doctor

spelled here a day to rest the mules and horses. It was on the banks

of this creek that I discovered (among others) the new and

interesting plant, since dedicated to Dr. Greeves, Greevesia

cleisocalyx, Dr. Leichhardt was good enough to name a mountain

at the head of this romantic creek after my unworthy self. The

doctor gave us some sweet tea, and the day was finished with that

and a dish of boiled melons.

July 5.—We resumed our travels, and nothing occurred to

interrupt our progress to Charlie's Creek, where we saw; fresh

tracks of cattle. We again camped on its bank, and were on the eve

of going to sleep, when the barking of dogs was heard on the

opposite bank of the Condamine River. This was an intimation of

the close proximity of a station; and visions of damper, mutton,

and other sweetmeats, attended the slumbers of many of the party.

Early the following morning, Dr. Leichhardt crossed the river, and

followed the direction from whence the sounds from the dogsproceeded. He had not been long absent, when he returned with

Mr. Chauvell and Mr. Ewer. The two gentlemen had followed on

our outward track, and settled upon this part of the Condamine.

These gentlemen expressed pleasure at our safe return, after

noticing the worn-out and haggard appearance presented by the

party. We remained two days at Mr. Chauvell's station, where we

were kindly supplied with every necessary, when we finally

started for Jimba and Darling Downs. Previous to leaving, I

exchanged pipes with Mr. C., receiving a new one for my old

black veteran of the wilderness, and to which Mr. C. appeared to

attach considerable value. Upon reaching Jimba, we were sorry to

learn that, during our absence, its worthy proprietor, Mr. Dennis,

had been drowned during a passage to Sydney by the "Tamar"

steamer.

Dr. Leichhardt was now put in full possession of the result of Sir

Thomas Mitchell's expedition, and expressed a wish, before going

to Sydney, to make an excursion in the direction of the Grafton

Range and Fitzroy Downs, newly discovered by Sir Thomas, in

order to connect Sir Thomas's track with his own. Of this

excursion, we shall feel much pleasure in allowing the doctor to

speak for himself.

Bunce wrote the following works

"A Manual of Practical Gardening for Van Diemen's Land" (Hobart Town, 1838);
"The Australian Manual of Horticulture,"
"Hortus Tasmaniensis;”`
"Guide to Linnean System of Botany; “
"Manual of Pract. Gardening, &c." (2nd ed., Melb" 1850);.
"Languages of the Aborigines of Victoria and other Australian Districts, with Parallel Translations,and Familiar Specimens in Dialogue” (l2mo, Melb., 1851);
"Wanderings in the Australian Colonies" (Journ. of Australasia, i, 1856);
"Australasiatic Reminiscences of. 23 .Years' Wanderings in Tasmania .and the Australias"; including Travels, with Dr. Leichhardt in North or Tropical Australia” (Melbourne. 1857). (This work contams many autobiographical notes.)
"Languages of the Aborigines of Victoria and other Districts; Dialogues, Parallel Trans., &c.” ( Geelong, 1$59,)

https://adb.anu.edu.au/biography/bunce-daniel-1847

https://www.anbg.gov.au/biography/bunce-daniel.html